FEATURE: Small taquería, big names – meet Rosio Sanchez

FEATURE: Small taquería, big names – meet Rosio Sanchez

FEATURE: Who is getting top chefs from around the world come to Copenhagen to make tacos? That would be Rosio Sanchez, a young with a mission: To bring authentic Mexican flavours to Europe and to make it available to anyone.

Paco Méndez, Shinobu Namae, Fabian von Hauske, Jorge Vallejo, Zaiyu Hasegawa, Kris Yenbamroong, Mario Espinosa. All are names of chefs from top restaurants around the world who have made their way to Copenhagen this summer. What do they have in common with chefs Lisa Lov, Matt Orlando, Lars Williams and Jonathan Tam? Well, they have all spent a day making tacos at Copenhagen market hall Torvehallerne.

Why? They are all friends of Rosio Sanchez.

She opened her taquería Hija de Sanchez in June, and people have been lining up since day one. The day I meet her is no exception, even if the lines are not nearly as long as on the opening day, when they reached all the way to the road 50 meters away, Sanchez tells me.
– The first day was fun, but it was also a disaster. People waited about an hour in line and then twenty minutes to get their food. We had too many menu options, and the lines got longer and longer. We had an idea of how we were supposed to work and what our system of tickets should be. But things never play out the way you think. I’d only been working in restaurants, never in a taquería. So how would I know?, says Sanchez.

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  • Worth trying


    Masters Level 75
    Vegetarian dishesAmerican Express

    Tired of pared-down Nordic design? Then make your way to Lyon. The restaurant opposite the Opera is like a time capsule: nothing has changed since it opened in 1966 – and even then the place was über French with cafe curtains on brass bars, wall-to-wall carpeting, sconces and Piaff tunes streaming from the speakers. We are met and shown to our table by the almost stern, black-uniformed waitress (who turns out to be kind, knowledgable and attentive to our needs). Then we put our evening entirely in the hands of Chef Tuomas Vierelä and his colleagues. While the decor might be perceived as dated, the kitchen delivers contemporary, technique-driven cuisine that digs deeply into the Finnish soil – but Vierelä is not afraid of carefully selected Asian elements. Soon the snacks come flying across the table: a dense, chartreuse-coloured turmeric-cucumber soup with delicious herby oregano oil; a beautiful creation consisting of chicken liver under thin slices of fermented kohlrabi on small papery meringue bottoms; pike roe and cream of roasted yeast... The flavors are intense and acid-driven with umami as the underlying mantra. Everything whirls along at a high pace and soon our waitress starts filling our glasses at the same rate. No natural wines here, but well-made French vintages – what else? With a small tartlet with pumpkin, kombu and homemade goat’s cheese we enjoy a mineral Les Perles Rares from Laurent Vogt. The same producer’s pinot gris is served later with the restaurant’s most famous dish: foie gras with red beets, raspberry and hazelnuts. The dish is stylish and well-composed, but we miss a little of the funkier notes that Vierelä lets shine through now and then. Like when he scatters the ashes of dried Japanese shiso leaves over a cream flavored with wasabi. After sweetbreads with an umami-laced chicken broth enriched with black garlic, mustard seeds and oxalis, things begin to calm down a tad with a sheer white meringue tuile, pollen and sea buckthorn. A Coteaux du Layon is paired with a construction of smoked white chocolate with rhubarb and a citrus-scented gelée cap. Can we really manage another dish – peppermint ice cream with flakes of dried milk and fir tree powder? But of course we can. Then we go dazed out into the night, along with the other, surprisingly young, hip diners.

    More information about Lyon
The Nordics

The Nordics

By White Guide

The Nordic countries are a geographical and cultural region in Northern Europe and the North Atlantic...

White Guide Global Gastronomy Award 2015 to Magnus Nilsson of Sweden

White Guide Global Gastronomy Award 2015 to Magnus Nilsson of Sweden

WHITE GUIDE: For the ninth year running, White Guide proudly presents the White Guide Global Gastronomy Award laureate. The distinction is given to a creative chef of international prominence, who is at the apex of his or her professional orbit and who has become an example and inspiration within and for contemporary gastronomy. This is the first time a Swedish chef receives the award.

Magnus Nilsson awarded the White Guide Global Gastronomy Award 2015

“A Northern light gleaming far and beyond”

White Guide Global Gastronomy Award 2015 - in cooperation with Electrolux.

Magnus Nilsson, Fäviken Magasinet, Järpen:

The jury’s motivation: “For having developed a truly unique and personal gastronomy, gleaming as a Northern light far and beyond, extracting the innermost secrets of his local woods, fields and waters, with the deepest understanding of his terroirs, their potential and margins of sustainability, with the doorway ajar to the parallel universe of microbiology, all delivered in a stunning restaurant culture bridging history and future, local with global, science with art – seasoned with poetry and humour.”

Fäviken Magasinet is located in the Northern part of Sweden, close to Åre, Sweden’s foremost winter sports destination. The restaurant at the resort-like Fäviken estate is housed in an old dairy farm. Since opening in 2009, the restaurant has gained international fame for its ultra-local gastronomy and is now ranked #19 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

Molskroen in Denmark is among the best Nordic restaurants

Molskroen in Denmark is among the best Nordic restaurants

NEW TEST: Due to a technical production error, the highly acclaimed Danish restaurant Molskroen did not make its way to the printed edition of the White Guide Nordic 2015, when the guide was published in December.

This, in spite of the fact that the Jutland based establishment features at a comfortable 87th place in the list of the best restaurants in the Nordic countries with a solid 77 points total, 32 food points.
The full review of Molskroen can be accessed through the ebook and in the soon-to-be-launched White Guide Nordic app, together with the review of its next door brasserie style Molskroen Strandhotel. Or you can read it right here:

French connection moves south

After Michel Michaud left Ruth’s Hotel in Skagen, there was a collective sigh of relief when he announced he was only moving a bit further south to run the kitchen at Molskroen’s beach hotel. Thus Denmark’s restaurant scene kept one of its great legends as an active proponent of French gastronomy. Since the autumn of 2014, Michaud has also taken up the gastronomic reins at Molskroen’s main restaurant as well as the beach hotel brasserie. Lasse Paulsen is still the head chef but the cooking is informed by Michaud’s uncompromising expression of classic French styles.

What’s cooking up north?

What’s cooking up north?

WHITE GUIDE NORDIC: The now legendary New Nordic movement was a fresh approach to everything: the ingredients chefs used, how they sourced them, how they cooked them – or not – and how they presented them. But behind the hype is a rich mosaic of traditions, local variations and individual cooking styles.

(This is an extract - you can read the entire article in The White Guide Nordic Book)

By White Guide’s publisher-editor Lars Peder Hedberg.

When the Copenhagen-based Noma made its trial appearance at Mandarin Oriental in Tokyo in early 2014, it was a roaring success. Savvy Japanese diners couldn’t get enough. And Noma’s René Redzepi wanted more of Japan. It was true love. So, for two months in the beginning of 2015, the entire restaurant is relocating to Tokyo, this time without the Nordic foodstuffs, but only the mindset.
Extremely fresh (as in “live”) and its opposite, rotting (as in “fermented”), are two of the many elements that contemporary Nordic and traditional Japanese cuisine have in common. This gastronomy is not for the faint of heart, but for those who dare to venture outside their comfort zones.
        Leading Nordic chefs, such as Copenhagen’s Jakob Mielcke at Mielcke & Hurtigkarl, have been inspired by Japan for years now. In Sweden the fusion is especially palate- and eye-catching, where leading restaurants such as Restaurant Frantzén, Oaxen Krog, Mathias Dahlgren, Gastrologik and Fäviken Magasinet all, in different ways, meld Swedish and Japanese techniques and traditions. But the best place to enjoy Swedish-Japanese fusion is at Sayan Isaksson’s triple-unit establishment in Stockholm – the fine dining Esperanto (ranked Best Restaurant in Sweden 2013 and 2014 by the White Guide), the innovative restaurant Råkultur, and the casual izakaya, Shibumi.

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