• Very Fine Level 74

    Woodstockholm Matbar

    BarChambre separéeBar menuTables outsideVegetarian dishesHjärtekrogAmerican Express
    Mosebacke Torg 9, 116 46 Stockholm

    Prepare to be romanced at this tiny restaurant on Mosebacke Square. There is always a theme behind the minimal menu on the blackboard. On one of our visits the source of inspiration is the ardent U.S. food icon Julia Child, whose cooking shows are also projected on the cute, floral lace curtain. First we fall head over heels for the starter. The gin-perfumed venison tartare melts in the mouth. It’s complemented by smoked cream, crunchy pieces and brittle chips of salsify, trout roe that pops in your mouth and piquant garden cress. It is incredibly ingenious and elicits a mild euphoria, reinforced by the recommended light Burgundy. The smart wine selection draws heavily on the staff’s almost clairvoyant insights about their diners’ preferences. The vegetarian alternative is well conceived and an elaborate orgy of textural contrasts, fat, carbohydrates, and umami. It’s certainly easy to light-heartedly gobble up the food here, but it also holds up to more profound analysis. A dessert with chocolate cake and poached pears may seem pretty simple on paper, but it demonstrates refinement – in part because lavender has been smuggled into the light milk ice cream. At that point we fumble for our calendars to schedule the next visit. There are, you see, many reasons why it is crowded among the narrow long tables with slender chairs. If you want a bit more space we recommend the bar counter where you will receive lots of extra love from the charming and well-informed staff.

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