Molskroen in Denmark is among the best Nordic restaurants
NEW TEST: Due to a technical production error, the highly acclaimed Danish restaurant Molskroen did not make its way to the printed edition of the White Guide Nordic 2015, when the guide was published in December.
This, in spite of the fact that the Jutland based establishment features at a comfortable 87th place in the list of the best restaurants in the Nordic countries with a solid 77 points total, 32 food points.
The full review of Molskroen can be accessed through the ebook and in the soon-to-be-launched White Guide Nordic app, together with the review of its next door brasserie style Molskroen Strandhotel. Or you can read it right here:
French connection moves south
After Michel Michaud left Ruth’s Hotel in Skagen, there was a collective sigh of relief when he announced he was only moving a bit further south to run the kitchen at Molskroen’s beach hotel. Thus Denmark’s restaurant scene kept one of its great legends as an active proponent of French gastronomy. Since the autumn of 2014, Michaud has also taken up the gastronomic reins at Molskroen’s main restaurant as well as the beach hotel brasserie. Lasse Paulsen is still the head chef but the cooking is informed by Michaud’s uncompromising expression of classic French styles.
The high-quality produce and the familiar compositions shape the groundwork for a wonderful meal. Each and every ingredient has been carefully chosen and cooked to maximise the flavour potential of the dishes. Poached cod, Jerusalem artichokes, kale and truffle made up the first dish on the autumn menu. It was perfectly balanced so that each element showed its characteristics without stealing the limelight from the fish. Truffles are an increasingly prolific ingredient on today’s restaurant menus, promising great things but often failing to add much flavour or punch to the dish as a whole. That’s not the case at Molskroen where the quality of each ingredient shun through and where the truffles were among the best we have tried in Denmark this year.
The interior is modern gastro cool, with nods to masculine exclusivity but also with a stylish and slightly feminine touch. Tom Dixon’s trademark circle pendant lights form a bronze sky which sets the stage for the meal in a pleasant, golden light. The service staff complete the experience with a professional manner that is pleasantly offset by a casual personal approach. Their knowledge and expertise came to the fore in a highly competent and formidable presentation of the large cheese selection.
The wine list is extensive and is handled very well. The pairings for the autumn menu stretched throughout Europe, including a visit to Cold Hand Winery in Randers, Denmark; a fruit wine made with with plums accompanied a dessert of walnut dacquoise and Armagnac ice cream. It was a great combination of walnut meringues and cream and Armagnac, with the sweet wine offering a nice balance. Overall, the high service level, the exclusive surroundings, the impressive produce and the kitchen’s uncompromising culinary approach add up to a thoroughly luxurious dining experience.
More information about Molskroen can be found HERE