From the White Guide Nordic 2018:

108

Masters Level 87
Food rating:35/40Service rating:17/20
BarBanqueting roomsWheelchair accessVegetarian dishesMedlem af Horesta
  • Address: Strandgade 108, 1401 Copenhagen
  • Phone: +45 32 96 32 92
  • Web: 108.dk
  • Seats: 80
108

Audacious genius

As the little brother of Noma, 108 has yeti-size shoes to fill, though on previous visits the restaurant has proven more than ready and willing to meet that challenge head-on. The cuisine has grown progressively sharper as the freshness of some dishes in the establishment’s early days has given way across the board to great flavour. 108 obliterates the conventional wisdom that New Nordic cuisine lacks punch. The servings are simple, featuring few but attentively prepared elements. One of our favourites is the raw Skagen shrimp, decoratively served as a flower encircled by red sorrel atop small salted green strawberries – a fine, elegant dish packed with fantastic flavour from sweet shrimp of the freshest quality. Ribbon-like slices of octopus in bacon broth – a New Nordic spin on ramen – is a 108 classic whose pure simplicity and deep intensity steal the show, with small pieces of glasswort adding the taste of the sea. Batter-fried oxtail meatballs with fir shoots is an ultra-hyped yet heavenly mouthful; we find ourselves compelled to order an extra round. Another dish deserving mention is the salt-baked celeriac, decoratively sliced into ribbons, rolled into spirals and topped with a rich, thick sauce featuring aged Gammel Knas cheese and grilled parsley, with subtle burnt notes providing the finishing touch. The service is exceptional and attentive, as 108 benefits greatly from its relation to Noma, whose magnetic attraction draws in passionate chefs and waiters from around the world. Sommelier Riccardo Marcon directs the proceedings with an impressively unpretentious and knowledgeable approach, and predominately natural wine pairings. Follow his recommendations and delve into an exciting world of wine that both challenges and pleases. The challenge stems from the characteristic acetic acid in the natural wines and ciders, which can prove to be a tart pleasure. But it is also fantastic to be served a powerful oaked savagnin from Jura full of body, acidity and complexity – and to discover how a light and slightly bitter, almost meaty cabernet franc from a non-appellation region outside Provence perfectly matches an animalistic serving of beetroot, blackcurrant and smoked veal heart. 108 often takes it to the limit, both in terms of food and wine, and that is precisely where a restaurant experience turns truly exceptional: on the border between madness and genius. Yet we land on safe ground every time, as flavour wins over ideas at this tightly run ship, where unpretentious waiters guide the experience with a steady hand from start to finish...

To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.

  • 108
  • 108

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