From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Krudtløbsvej 8, 1439 København K
- Phone: +45 31 16 32 05
- Web: restaurant56grader.dk
- Seats: 56
Provincial idyll in the city
It’s impressive how quickly you can get from the hustle and bustle of Copenhagen’s Nyhavn to the peaceful surroundings of Refshaleøen. Here one finds Charlotte Amalie’s Bastion, a gunpowder magazine built in 1744 and now the home of Restaurant 56°. The old wooden beams holding up the whitewashed ceilings and the lambskin-clad wooden furniture are reminiscent of Noma, and 56° certainly shares Nordic cuisine as its guiding star. The room has a warmth and tranquillity, enhanced all the more by our pleasant waiter, who provides impeccable and informal service. The menu’s three courses showcase seasonal ingredients, some of which are grown by the restaurant itself while others are sourced from local biodynamic farmers. A couple of appetisers in the form of poached quail egg with fermented garlic and pickled Jerusalem artichokes in a Jerusalem artichoke foam set the Nordic stage before we move on to the first course featuring lumpfish and horseradish. At the centre of the dish is a moulded horseradish mousse packing a spicy kick. It’s topped with lumpfish roe and surrounded by smoked lumpfish, wild herbs and crisp pieces of pear. The pear proves essential with its succulence and crispness, providing an exquisite contrast to the tender lumpfish and soft mousse. Our waiter pours an exotic still white wine of pure pinot noir from Beaufort in Champagne, which is far too acidic on its own, but paired with the dish is a perfect match – a daring and impressive choice. The main course combines the rustic and elegant: young pork shanks on the bone, served with pommes fondant, herbed mashed potatoes and an intense cognac sauce. The dish could have used more of the pickled slices of daikon for freshness in this somewhat heavy serving made from otherwise excellent ingredients. A rich desert of coffee caramel and dark ale ice cream round out a superb meal, where rustic and refined techniques go hand in hand with the beautiful surroundings...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.