From the White Guide Nordic 2018:

À L’aise

Masters Level 78
Food rating:32/40Service rating:17/20
Chambre separéeWheelchair access

2001: A French odyssey

Everything moves in circles. The world spins around the sun. The moon travels around Earth. And in the same way, trends you thought never would come back, come back. À L’aise is the restaurant equivalent of a high-speed car chase down the wrong lane. The greeting and careful reception is overshadowed by the exceptionally specific turn-of-the-millennium timestamp on the interior design. Some say 2001 should only be repeated viewing the visual spectacles of Kubrick, and that the only people who should be allowed to go back to 2001 should be highly skilled museum conservators. But a lot of people love this beige-on-beige-on-grey look, especially the more senior visitors, for whom all of this is simply magnificent. The champagne trolley, with wheels that aren’t quite big enough to match the high-pile shag carpet, is fully loaded. But disappointingly, they seem to have furnished it with loot from their last trip to the airport. The tax-free selection puts a stain on what could have been a free dive into bubbly fun, but our dismay fades when the food is brought in and we fall into a luxurious state of well-being. It starts off gently, as we sit in the soft grey chairs. The sommelier pulls out classics, a few highlights, and makes sure our palates are cleansed before the next serving. A parade of neoclassic French-inspired dishes follows, since we forked out on the tasting menu, but if you don’t there is a fine selection to be ordered from à la carte. Norwegian seafood is served in new ways. Hidden under a sheet of gelatinised milk, a scallop dressed in a heated and sweating Spanish ham perfumed with hazelnuts and topped with winter truffle evokes a small outburst of joy at the tables nearby. The small and firm langoustine tail is dressed in fresh raspberries and preserved beetroots. The meat dish, veal en croute, is a juicy piece of calf’s meat rolled in a crispy crust. The textures are pleasing and the mild meat gets a little kick from the surrounding crumbs. There is a lot of produce from Norway but no seasonal or geographical restraints. With Chef Ulrik Jepsen’s dedication and drive we have no doubt that À L’aise will find its audience and develop new experiences. À’laise is a refreshing new arrival on Oslo’s dining scene with its contemporary take on French luxury...

To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.

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