From the White Guide Nordic 2018:

AG

Very Fine Level 77
Food rating:30/40
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AG

Devilishly fleshy

Few people in Sweden’s restaurant industry are as freely controversial as John Jureskog. Not just because he played Robespierre in the meat revolution Stockholm underwent a decade ago, but also because he still insists on the virtues of meat at a time when bloody steaks are as modern as fax machines. That’s nothing compared to the shock that swept through the masses of root vegetable hipsters, organic food freaks and sourdough disciples when Jureskog stepped down into fast food Hades and developed three gourmet burgers for McDonalds last year. Still, Jureskog is relentless in his mission. And total salvation is what you get at his meat temple on Kungsholmen. The entrance is like stepping into a horror movie. Heavy carcasses hang on shiny hooks in the huge glass fridge. Tiled walls have the right slaughterhouse vibe. The bizarre ham tree gives you the heebie-jeebies. The approach is brilliant and AG is one of Stockholm’s hottest and sexiest restaurants. The first course is a difficult choice between, say, air-dried Wagyu, lightly smoked bacon or pork pâté with pata negra, Parmesan cheese and pickled vegetables. The main courses are just as direct in their articulation. Some more complex dishes are available but one does best by ordering from the cuts in the fridge: Rib-eye, T-bone, club steak, porterhouse. The sides are classic, like béarnaise with fries or potatoes au gratin. Jureskog likes to go for the meat hot and hard and this lovingly harsh treatment of the excellent raw ingredients results in pieces so heavenly good that we ignore the facts about meat’s carbon footprint and instead let the sin become part of the spice...

To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.

  • AG
  • AG

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