From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Århusgade 22, 2100 Copenhagen
- Phone: +45 51 93 56 23
- Web: restaurant-alchemist.dk
- Seats: 15
- Opening Hours: Wed-Sat 6 PM-10 PM, Closed Sun-Tue
We begin with a champagne called Mémoire. Crisp, with some depth, it proves a good pairing with the evening’s many snacks. It is also a harbinger of things to come: a parade of beliefs and memories manifested as dishes. Renowned for his social engagement and bold creativity, Chef Rasmus Munk compels diners at Alchemist to contemplate a wide array of perspectives. We are whisked away to every corner of the world Munk has visited, into uncharted waters with ingredients such as live insects, udder, blood and offal. The dishes push us to the limit, some gently and others more forcefully, yet the experience is held together by the careful selection of ingredients, impeccable flavour and cordial, humorous and knowledgeable service. Alchemist has but one menu and it contains 45 servings. It is all-in from the get-go with a tart sprinkling of ants over a mouthful of frozen apple foam and picturesque flowers. The kitchen’s affinity for molecular gastronomy and miracle powders is immediately clear as it conjures up juice-filled “cherries” with a hard chocolaty shell, chips with tomato powder in an edible bag, and mushroom quiche featuring a sphere that explodes on the palate with the intense flavours of mushroom and thyme. The meal is interwoven with entertainment and deliciousness, as evidenced by the gin-based drink we sip through straws from an iced lemon to the sounds of Balkan disco. The electronica-heavy soundtrack, curated especially for the restaurant, is a story in itself. Diners arrive throughout the evening, however, so it may be pure coincidence that a scathing violin intensely accompanies the proceedings as we stuff ourselves like caged geese with foie gras cream and freeze-dried maize. It tastes good, but the serving is not exactly pleasant and the symbolism is hard to miss. The same is true when Munk rolls in with a drip bag hanging from a rack that contains “blood” of beetroot and chicken stock. The sauce is sprayed over a lamb’s heart filled with tartare and we are furnished with a leaflet containing information on organ donation. The symbolism is more light-hearted as the theme from Beverly Hills 90210 blares out from a pair of headphones and we let all seriousness subside and simply munch on a grilled ham and cheese sandwich. The ham is dried Joseli from about the same year (2006) that Rasmus Munk spent time in front of the TV in his teenage bedroom. Similarly humoristic are the satay skewers with “balls” – cock balls, that is – that we grill over charcoal, and wine gum earthworms that we dig up from edible soil. The food is kept on track by the excellent wine pairings and an exotic juice menu featuring such choices as avocado juice and piña colada. Generally speaking, the wines are better matched than the juices. Take the iced tea with yuzu, for example, which is far too sweet for the deconstructed sushi of Japanese cod with caviar and soy sauce in a cone of nori, whereas a deep, mineral aligoté from 2007 fits this lovely dish like a glove. Forty-five servings sounds like a lot, but time flies by from the moment you take your seat at one of the dining bar’s soft chairs and allow yourself to be treated and entertained. Alchemist is intense, often teetering on the edge, and it will expand the horizons of the vast majority of its guests. In return, it is never boring and offers a virtually unparalleled total experience that is equal parts delicious, thoughtful and thought provoking...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.