From the White Guide Nordic 2018:

Aloë

Masters Level 87
Food rating:35/40
Chambre separéeMedlem i Visita – Svensk Besöksnäring
Aloë

Expert and playful gastronomy

There is a high ceiling at Aloë – both literally and when it comes to flavour. Few restaurants in Sweden take you on such a breathtaking journey through flavours and combinations from different food cultures. The chefs/owners Daniel Höglander and Niclas Jönsson tug and tease out flavours in order to develop new sensations for the palate. Their concept is that nothing should be taken as a given. One evening might be inspired by Asian flavours, another by North African – or some other cuisine that attracted exploration. But seasonal produce is always the foundation. The old grocery store in the suburb of Älvsjö is attracting more and more and more foodies – and they get a lot of inspiration for their money. Especially if they sit at the green marble counter overlooking the concentrated assemblage taking place in the kitchen. Four evenings a week they offer a fixed menu full of surprises. The professional service staff usher out large wooden serving trays. The Galician cockles are a big hit, intermingled with octopus arms under a grilled slice of lemon butter surrounded by light green parsley butter sauce. The minerality of the Portuguese Vale da Capucha wine enhance the experience. Sommelier Per Larsson’s wine selection is consistently spot on and the European-dominant wine list impressive. Aloë is behind one of the year’s most beautiful dishes: three quickly seared langoustines from Fjällbacka, passion fruit, crisps of arborio rice, Parmesan cheese and yogurt alongside an emulsion of smoked egg yolk and another of sambal badjak. After an intense kick-start of flavours, like a miso-flavoured crab with cardamom leaves, comes a soft Junmai sake as an in-between beverage to calm the over-stimulated senses. Then, pheasant heart on a satay skewer and grilled skin, and after that a lark: under a black blanket of amontillado sherry gelée hides a thin slice of steak stuffed with Parmesan cream in a parsley broth and, on the side, a dollop of roe. A syrah from McLaren Vale in Australia amplifies the refined umami and fatty acids. The chefs’ ambitions are high in each dish – like a dessert of fried apple ice cream, vanilla custard sauce flavoured with Jerusalem artichoke and yet another unexpected condiment: a dollop of barely frozen coriander cream attractively decorated with lemon verbena and crispy bread. They sure are having fun in the kitchen. Or, to quote Höglander: “We have to do something to keep the diners from falling asleep”!..

To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.

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