From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Engelbrektsgatan 13, 211 33 Malmö
- Phone: +46 425 87 88
- Web: bord13.se
- Seats: 35
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat from 5.30 PM
- Directions: See Google Map underneath
Passion on the plate and purity in the glass
Bord 13 was originally conceived as the casual dining side of B.A.R – but the division has never been spot on, and the food here has always been too good for the narrow concept of a wine bar. Now instead the mother restaurant has been bistro-fied (à la carte) and Bord 13 has gone fine dining (menu only) – a wise decision, because the innovative, flavourful, and natural food cooked here is fully capable of fighting it out at the top of Malmö’s restaurant range. The service is quick and friendly, without unnecessary flourishes and, above all, they are well versed in what is served on the plate and in the glass. We begin with Sylvain Bock’s Trou Blanc – funky, unfiltered and wonderfully versatile. It works with the small “eyes” of bone marrow fat, red beets and dark chocolate, as well as with the lamb tartare with small crunchy flakes of chicken skin, encompassing both the elderflower cream and the pickled rose petals. Like all wines here it is produced with minimal intervention from the winemaker. Pontus Elofsson (formerly of Noma and now a natural wine importer) and his predilection for natural processes is evident in the extensive selection. In fact, Bord 13 is one of the best places in Sweden to explore this wine category. The same philosophy also encompasses the kitchen, where neither red-listed fish nor medicated mammals shall cross the threshold. So it is with a clear conscience that we take a little more of the bright green pig fat with accompanying pork sprinkles served with the dark bread made with wheat from the island of Öland and Danish porter. The next dish could be called a seasonal hit with its nutty, raw-planed chestnuts and beurre blanc, baked kohlrabi, pine needles and saithe powder. And the matching juice made from pressed apples with lemon thyme is spot on. It is a low-intensity dish, filled with interesting textures, in which every mouthful contains a new dimension. The contrast could not be greater with the wild duck that follows. It is intense, bloody, and dramatic with sweetness from carrot, acidity from the plums and dried blueberries, crispiness from the fried kale and deeply flavoured with black garlic. The Valencia wine from the Bodegas Cueva fits like a glove. We calm our nerves with a fluffed curdled cream with salty caramel sauce, cacao nibs, pine oil and rosemary – a delicate encounter between the classic and New Nordic dessert traditions that provides both an interesting gastronomic experience and (not least) soothes the sweet tooth. Bord 13 presents modern cuisine at a masterful level – complex but at the same time as nakedly clean as the room it's served in...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.