From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Ørjaveita 4, 7010 Trondheim
- Phone: +47 73 53 03 88
- Web: restaurantcredo.no
- Seats: 50
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 18:00 - 00:00 *Last booking at 21:00
Restaurant Credo is now temporary closed awaiting its relocation at Lilleby in Trondheim. - After 18 years on a narrow backstreet Restaurant Credo, the best restaurant in the region, and one of the longest-running restaurants in White Guide Nordic’s Norwegian top ten, is finally growing up and moving on. In a way that’s unprecedented, Credo has managed to reinvent itself several times during its lifespan, outshining the rest of its competitors year after year. During the summer of 2017 they are closing down and moving to new and better-suited facilities outside the city centre, a much-needed upgrade for the restaurant and the city of Trondheim. One could assume that the restaurant might go on autopilot in advance of a relocation like this, but that’s not the case with owner Chef Heidi Bjerkan. She’s working harder than ever, steadily improving the quality of each aspect of her operation. Credo has close and exciting relationships with two local farms, Skjølberg Søndre and Fannremsgården, which provide the restaurant with an amazing array of produce, dairy and meat. With these resources, Bjerkan is recreating food traditions from the whole region, preserving these memories for the future, and reprocessing them into modern cuisine. Her blend of tradition and modernity makes us remember long-forgotten flavours from our youth: this is grandmother’s cooking for our grandchildren to try. Some of those memorable flavours are showcased in one amuse-bouche – a small blood pudding made from pork blood and port wine topped with an intense, fermented lingonberry gelée. It is velvety, full of umami and so flavourful that you wonder why this traditional peasant food isn’t served on every street corner in Scandinavia. A thinly sliced lacto-fermented rutabaga taco is filled with lamb sweetbreads and black garlic – as “Trøndersk” as you can get, yet as modern as can be. Her homage to local ingredients is perfectly presented in the serving of “potetlompe”, a potato cake – the best we’ve ever had – served with homemade charcuterie and the most amazing butter and sour cream imaginable from Fannremsgården. It is bold to serve something as elementary as this – yet perfect. It’s spring, but we get a bit of fall with our raw shrimps, which are lightly brushed with chillies and served underneath last year’s kohlrabi (that’s been stored in beetroot wine) and this year’s first dandelion leaves and rose petals. The local langoustine is simply cooked in butter and served next to an emulsion made out of the fascinating sea wrack called siphon weed, topped with green oxalis. Our main course is pork cured for three months to an incredible tenderness with pickled and puffed barley, kale and pickled chanterelles and black trumpet mushrooms. It’s so uncomplicated, but at the same time so refined. The dessert is one of the sweet highlights of the year: ice cream made from raw milk in bay leaf oil topped with a caramel made from dulse seaweed comes on a bed of crumbled coffee cake and fermented barley gelée. Chef Bjerkan’s work restoring the region’s food culture can be compared with Magnus Nilsson’s work at Fäviken, right over the Swedish border, and right now her hard work is the greatest culinary asset the region of Trøndelag possesses. We look forward to the next chapter...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.