From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Hverfisgata 12, 101 Reykjavík
- Phone: +354 552 1522
- Web: dillrestaurant.is
- Seats: 23
- Opening Hours: Wed-Sat from 6 PM
Locally caught and grown
With the first snacks, the tone is set. Algae, rum, ash, and dill (of course). The Icelandic seafood, smoke, fire and locally sourced produce with deep flavours make Dill the Atlantic’s northernmost spot for wandering gastronomes. Here you can experience New Nordic cuisine in the volcanic Arctic environment. The old building in the middle of town has a raw charm with high ceilings and many original details scattered about the rustic wooden tables. When the evening darkens, the spotlights create atmosphere around the cooks as they assemble the dishes in the open kitchen. The three snacks arrive quickly. A baked Jerusalem artichoke covered with tarragon powder stands out, as does dried egg yolk with trout strips which are smoked with, among other things, dried sheep dung – a reference to the time when everything had to be utilized. They have great ambitions here when it comes to matching the food with both beer and wine – though there are no alcohol-free pairings. The sommelier is well read but not that pedagogical when it comes to explaining the ins and outs of the biodynamic natural wines. The Greek orange wine, Roditis from Domain Tatsis, is demanding with its muted fruit – yet a superb combo with the dish containing pickled mushrooms and a tasty mushroom broth under a thin mushroom-powdered crispy round of baked celeriac. An unoaked biodynamic chardonnay from Mâcon is also well matched with char and cucumber. The lightly cured fish is covered with chartreuse parsley powder and accompanied by crème fraîche, pieces of salted cucumber, and toasted crumbs of rye bread. It’s stylish but the flavours don’t quite get off the ground. The smoked haddock is an equally handsome presentation, but with yummier flavours. Dill oil and creamy, whipped skyr (Icelandic yoghurt) create contrast for the smoky fish, which is paired with a bitter sweet-sour Belgian-brewed beer: Mikkeller Hva Såå!? The service is nimble and even the chef is part of the team around the tables. The tempo is high and the atmosphere is good among the international guests who get a seat in this Nordic food temple. In a country that has more sheep than people, a lamb steak is a foregone conclusion – tender and nicely accompanied by baked parsley root, pickled fennel, and fennel cream. It’s not exactly a showstopper, but it is good together with the Montefalco wine from Umbria. The challenging mix of barley grains, malt and dried grated guillemot (a sea bird) is interesting with its wild notes but does not raise the roof. The first dessert, on the other hand, is one of the best of the year: a beautiful scoop of red beet sorbet with a lid of meringue powdered with tarragon rests in a cream of the caramellized whey cheese called brunost. All these intense and contrasting flavours meet in a perfect mix of caramel notes, sweet earthiness and fragile sweetness. The bubbly raspberry-fruity Pieropan wine enhances the experience. They also get it right with a Norman apple cider served with poached pear with almond sorbet and a sauce made from birch sap served in a beautiful ceramic bowl. The entire setup at Dill testifies to ambition and feeling. Though we wish the service had a bit more personality and charm, we leave feeling extremely satisfied...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.