From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Lilla Nygatan 5, 111 28 Stockholm
- Phone: +46 8 506 400 84
- Web: djuret.se
- Seats: 36
- Opening Hours: Mon-Thu 06.30 AM-11 PM, Fri 06.30 AM-01 AM, Sat 07.30 AM-01 AM, Sun 07.30 AM-11 AM
- Directions: See Google Map underneath
Respect from nose to tail
No, Chef Mikael Einarsson did not shoot the Sormland deer, not this time anyway. But hunt he does, out of interest in food and perhaps even to maintain respect for animals and the raw ingredients. Even though there is also a completely vegetarian menu, it is the meat that takes center stage, or rather, the animal. They serve one at a time here, every few weeks. And what animals! Cow from Rafna farm, Linderöd pig from Halla farm, deer from Äleby farm, and Ockelbo chicken. To mention a few. The kitchen’s focus also comes through in the interior details – meat scales as a coat rack, taxidermied animals and antlers on the walls, and butchering diagrams on the tables. There are a lot of textiles and a lot of ornamentation and all of it together creates a fun, friendly and welcoming atmosphere. The knowledgeable and sympathetic staff reinforce the homey feeling and the meal with their apt wine recommendations. Already the mouthwatering little smoked venison sausage that comes with lemon and egg foam and dried venison on the bottom of the plate speaks to the solid craftsmanship, especially as we know how difficult it is to make sausage from game. The broth made from the legs lends itself to an umami-fueled dish that has almost everything one could ask for – flank steak confit, suet-fried steak, a trio of cabbage and truffle! The seared tenderloin is the star of the show with thin slices of baked celeriac shaped almost like flowers, pickled rowanberries, fried kale and Comté-baked egg yolk. And there’s “Quiet chair” on the menu: what’s that? Well, it means that you can choose to have the staff keep quiet about the food and allow you to eat in peace. It costs nothing. We like that...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.