From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Assensvej 513, 5642 Millinge
- Phone: +45 62 68 11 11
- Web: falsledkro.dk
- Seats: 56
- Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 12 noon-2 PM, 6:30 PM-8:30 PM
Sublime indulgence in southern Funen
The iconic hunter’s chairs are no longer to be found in front of the fireplace in the inn’s main hall – the first thing to catch your eye when entering Southern Funen’s Falsled Kro. The chairs were destroyed in connection with a serious burglary at the inn in late 2016. Nonetheless, a peaceful calm quickly falls upon us as we take our places in front of the fireplace on new Børge Mogensen chairs, armed with a glass of champagne and the season’s first lumpfish roe. The meal itself takes place at a large table with thick white tablecloths as the warmth of the open hearth radiates throughout the inn, and where waiters donned in sleeve garters kindly and discreetly serve us. Time stands still here – in a good way. Falsled Kro is old-school luxury, as are the plates sent out of the open kitchen by Chef Per Hallundbæk. A wood-roasted onion peel with smoked sweetness conceals razor clams and sea snails below, in a rich and creamy clam sauce. Every bite is absolutely delicious. A cut of steamed cod – wonderfully firm in structure – is served with fried kohlrabi leaves and a crisp roll of raw kohlrabi with oysters that provides full and salty minerality with an intense watercress sauce to tie the dish together. The generous body and rich quince aroma of a viogner from Château de Beaucastel proves a nice pairing with the oysters – an often difficult feat. Fried duck hearts with a mountain of highly aromatic black winter truffles, morel cream and 36-month Comté provide umami with small acidic explosions of pickled golden beets. The sommelier’s only misstep here is a rather lukewarm blaufränkisch. Our disappointment dissipates as a “pigeon chop” of perfectly pink roasted breast and thigh of pigeon, forged together with chicken mince and caul fat, arrives at our table. The chop is an aesthetic work of genius that seduces the eye with its size and brown-glazed presentation. The condensed meat flavour is accompanied wholeheartedly by porcino mushrooms and an intense demi-glace seasoned with warm Christmas spices. The rich flavours are joined with the bitterness of red cabbage and much-needed acidity from quince, pickled mustard seeds and green grapes, while a Spanish tempranillo served at the proper temperature matches the dish with spicy oaked intensity and dark berries. The dish powerfully demonstrates that this agrarian Southern Funen kitchen is still running like a well-oiled machine. The inn’s garden supplies year-round produce to the kitchen, which is keen to pickle and preserve for the winter months. When the inn’s legendary cheese cart rolls up to our table, we take the last few steps up to heaven. Our waiter knows the story behind each of the 35 well-ripened cheeses, all at the right temperature and the majority are French and unpasteurised. We are welcome to taste them all, he adds. Three glasses of wine for the challenging cheese board prove a boisterous but prudent choice. Among these is a sancerre whose grassy aroma and crisp acidity make it a perfect companion with the fresh goat’s cheese. Coffee and exquisite homemade chocolates by the fire round off a nearly perfect experience. Falsled Kro is by all means worth a trip...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.