From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Vesterbrogade 184, 1800 Frederiksberg C
- Phone: +45 33 25 10 66
- Web: formel-b.dk
- Seats: 50
- Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 5:30 PM-12 midnight, Closed on Sunday
Long live the formula in Frederiksberg
On a long stretch of Vesterbrogade where fine dining bastions are few and far between, a grey bunker-like building stands proud, having housed a gastronomic forerunner of Copenhagen’s restaurant scene for more than a decade. The team behind formel B (formula B) can boast of having endowed the city centre with both its light-hearted little sister Uformel (Informal) and the king of smørrebrød restaurants, Restaurant Palægade, not to mention Restaurant Sletten in Humblebæk with its stunning sea views. As soon as you open the heavy door, you get the sense of having entered into a secret lodge where the butter is nobly embossed with a B and the international brotherhood of guests is privy to fact that formel B delivers to the fullest every time. We are greeted with a warm and professional reception, and the keen team of waiters quickly establishes a good rapport with their guests. The sommelier’s proud presentation of recommendations and the fixed menu pairings are akin to exploring the big questions of life with a trusted older family member. He exudes impressive authority despite his young age. Leave the decisions to him or have a deeper, exploratory chat with him about the menu and the cellar’s many other options in terms of both conventional and natural wines, with an emphasis on the latter. A jazzy atmosphere prevails in this tightly designed restaurant where the warm light of the kitchen shines through the glass window separating the din and bustle from the diners’ cosy surroundings in one section of the restaurant. The tables are placed so that you can sit in peace and enjoy the reverent parade of delights, from a Danish squid encircled by pickled onions and smoked foam to a rich dill emulsion. The remarkable take on surf and turf is certainly one of formel B’s signature dishes: a crisp yet succulent fried turbot with braised veal tail in a deep green parsley sauce. We recall this dish from our first visit in 2006, and it completely swept us off our feet back then, too. This time it is wonderfully paired with a mild and lightly spiced gamay. A dark, refreshing syrah escorts corned beef brisket, a crisp toast with morel pâté, thin wafers of celeriac and a glaze with such an amazing depth that it shines in tandem with the intense cherry notes of the wine. Formel B is the epitome of excellence in gastronomy and a place we instinctively want to revisit again and again. May it stay that way for decades to come...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.