From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Smallegade 41, 2000 Frederiksberg
- Phone: +45 38 88 33 35
- Web: frederikshave.dk
- Seats: 60
- Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 12 noon-2 PM, 5:30 PM-12 midnight, Closed on Sunday
Winter hibernation in the summer garden
On a bitterly cold winter’s evening, one can only dream about the magical summer lunches on these verandas bordering Frederiksberg Gardens, but everything in due time. We are comfortably inside, where the decor is stylish and polite, and where the kitchen delivers a culinary experience that incorporates both sublime classics and Nordic experiments. What remains constant is the competent and extremely friendly service. The menus of three to five courses are based on the à la carte options, but even before we reach the first course, we receive snacks that set the bar impressively high: dried wild mushrooms and potato are formed into paper-thin crisps, fried and served with a cream of pine and juniper berry and powdered with burnt leek – a wonderful palette of crispness and umami from the forest floor. The first course is sharp and classic – a silky-soft celeriac soup with a caramelised scallop and roasted apple. The second course, however, is a confusing vegetable dish with fried carrot. The plate combines carrot purée, truffles, and creamed Høost cheese in wonderful harmony, but the carrot itself, poached and fried in pistachio and walnut, lacks sweetness, and the rustic breading is far too dominant. The main course is a safer bet. Apart from the misplaced cubes of glazed bacon, the beef rump from Skåne with creamy polenta and lightly salted broccoli stalk is purely delicious. There isn’t much room for modern ventures on the classic wine list, but we find a cabernet franc from Loire, Domaine De La Chevalerie, which has a fine balance of acidity and fruit; it keeps us company throughout the meal, all the way to a sweet and sour dessert of white chocolate, coconut macaroon and lime cream...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.