From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Oddervej 19-21, 8000 Aarhus
- Phone: +45 86 14 22 80
- Web: frederikshoj.com
- Seats: 40
- Opening Hours: Wed-Sat 6 PM-12 midnight, Closed Mon-Sun
Boisterous personality with exacting style
It isn’t easy to get a table at Frederikshøj. Like everything else about this place, the booking system is out of the ordinary. You can’t just click on a desired date – you actually have to write and request a table. But once that request is granted, a unique experience awaits. Chef Wassim Hallal’s strong personality and creative soul permeate every aspect of Frederikshøj. It’s a place for going all-in, and you’ll drink classic wine in divine pairings that will live on in the annals of your memory. Despite the arrangement of large round tables for two, the immaculately skilled staff create a warmth and comfort that make you feel like you’re sitting in your very own oasis on a gastronomic expedition. A torrent of seven humorous and tasty appetisers arrives with undertones of richness, sweetness, umami and smoke. Among the innovative and playful bites is a bowl of attractive stones, two of which are edible. These are “potatoes in potatoes” with lightly smoked fish and a marbled potato membrane to create the illusion of a stone. You can’t help but smile. Culinary acrobatics with form and texture are one of Wassim Hallal’s trademarks and they continue throughout the meal’s 15 courses. An oyster is not just an oyster, but a crisp flake of dried oysters with an oyster cream and springy salicorn: a wonderful taste of the sea. Another standout among the many original and characteristic dishes is the tuna; the marbled cuts are barely browned on the edges, garnished with parsnip (both creamy and crispy) and topped at the table with a heap of almonds in browned butter. The characteristic umami of the tuna and the flavours from the Maillard reaction in the browning butter combine remarkably with the crunchy texture of the almonds: an amazing interpretation of a classic Barcelona tapa, further elevated to ethereal heights by the smoke and hay notes of a Loire Valley wine, Montlouis-sur-Loire "Les Borderies" from Le Rocher des Violettes. Next is a potpourri of ingenious desserts: a facsimile of a cherry with cherry filling, crumble and sorbet, followed by a chocolate sphere that looks like a ball of yarn filled with passion fruit, finished by “washing the plate” with a convincing copy of a scouring sponge that turns out to be an edible sponge cake with passion fruit “dishwashing soap”, and lastly, an edible soft-boiled egg of sour fruit and white chocolate, and a gold-plated edible chocolate bar. To complete the extravagance, the coffee comes with a petit four cart brandishing small ice cream sticks, filled chocolates and classic French confections – all executed with elite aptitude and featuring a bevy of distinct flavours in each little bite. Thus concludes an original and impressive meal underpinned by exquisite wine pairings featuring classics carefully chosen by the talented sommeliers. All-round, it’s an experience of the highest calibre...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.