From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Artillerigatan 14, 114 51 Stockholm
- Phone: +46 8 662 30 60
- Web: gastrologik.se
- Seats: 25
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 7 PM-11 PM. Closed from Christmas until first week in January
- Directions: See Google Map underneath
A Nordic Boléro
Extra-dry hipster champagne sets the tone with steely acidity, nuances of wet seashells, herb gardens and a tantalising aftertaste. This is to wash down the butter-brushed flatbread made from barley flour, and an ethereal pâté made from porcini and paper-thin slices of smoked celeriac. We get to fold them ourselves into soft mini tacos, like a Friday night supper for hobbits. It’s a low-key statement, an incarnation from an imaginary peasant’s kitchen in a country similar to ours, but a little prettier. A dinner at Gastrologik is a slow build-up in flavours and expressions that should be assessed as a whole once each piece of the puzzle has been laid. The base note is a little shy, like a reflection of the restaurateur duo Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr. The setting and the service staff, too, have a quiet, warm quality that shines through though on the surface they may seem austere and a bit chilly. But that could be said about Scandinavia, when it’s at its best. Here New Nordic cuisine is celebrated without it feeling like a straitjacket. The season and the ingredients are at the centre. This of course leads to rather different experiences depending on the time of year you eat here. Unforgettable from last summer: a risotto made from asparagus, in which even the grains were made out of the shoot and all those flavours were distilled into a new and higher definition of asparagus. Winter requires a few more accessories, and sometimes these take the upper hand, like when the scallop from Hitra, despite its sweetness and size, is overpowered by browned yeast, fermented garlic and drops of cider vinegar. The seafood surges onward, with monkfish liver and pickled gooseberries on crispy chicken skin. Bright green circles of Savoy kale folded into half-moons over plump cockles are so tremblingly springy that they explode in your mouth. Sea and pasture are amplified by lovage leaves, samphire, and butter made from an Icelandic algae that tastes like truffles. Honey-brushed, flaky cod with sloe berry-poached onion petals, with spruce shoots and dabs of burnt cream complete the theme. Crowd-pleasing mini tagliatelle-like spelt semolina hides a creamy quail egg “from Karolina” with Gotland truffles. It marries with a juicy pinot noir-based Rully wine. The same wine lends itself at least as well to a variation on guinea fowl with thigh, heart and liver in the company of flowering quince, apple and a rich cabbage broth that’s all thrown into the same bowl. A small jewel box with sparkling flavours contains the meal’s crescendo, a midwinter saga about summer’s slaughter and harvest. It contains all those metallic notes of cool Nordic cuisine: water lingonberry, briny elderberries and garlicky pickled ramson buds against the primal and sensual iron sweetness of a dense blood cream. In this case the non-alcoholic blueberry juice works even better than the trendy red wine from Sicilian Arianna Occhipinti. Two goat’s cheeses from Löfsta – aged, finely grated, and fresh – on a hefty pancake made out of maple peas. It’s blunt and too much of a good thing, and of course absolutely wonderful. It is with the dessert trio that Gastrologik hammers home the message that New Nordic is not passé. This year’s dessert is made of caramel from whey with celery-scented beach angelica and a coarse rhubarb mead granité. The caramel sticks to the palate and we want to keep it there. More intellectual and hard to love is the smoked ice cream with resin marmalade and a canopy of spruce shoots and lichen. The apple dessert forms a cloud of raw milk ice cream that rests on a crispy bed of roasted apple pieces and yet another caramel, from tart rowanberries. Elegant sweets made out of propolis, bee pollen, sloe berries, lovage, beets and malt, are flanked by a coffee selection and an entire archive of house-dried herbs that you blend yourself for infusion. It’s a menu that begins really well and just gets better...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.