From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Kongens Nytorv 8, 1050 Copenhagen
- Phone: +45 33 13 37 13
- Web: restaurantgeist.dk
- Seats: 150
- Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 6 PM-01 AM
Shrewd uniformity and masterful contrasts
At times we must rethink our conventional notions of what constitutes a top-class dining experience. Geist indisputably serves food at a high gastronomic level, but also challenges common doctrines. As we sit in the restaurant’s tightly-packed bar surrounding the open kitchen watching the chefs fast at work, and Michael Jackson’s “Rock With You” blasts out of the speakers, the first in array of culinary jewels arrives. Chef Bo Bech’s aesthetic prowess leaves nothing to be desired, and his dishes are edgy in both appearance and taste. The signature dish of delicately stacked pieces of fully ripened avocado, brushed with almond oil and topped with caviar, looks and tastes amazing. The oil brings together the almond notes of the two other elements in pure, seductive elegance – a true masterpiece. Bech is not shy when it comes to combining textures, as evidenced by a serving of smooth, creamy potato purée and Kalix bleak roe. The two elements alone comprise the dish, which may initially seem banal but proves to be courageous and right-on, as the flavour-absorbing mashed potatoes coax forth the depth of the salty fish eggs. The kitchen also masters the art of contrasts. Once again, the eye is provoked by the poached Gillardeau oysters, resting like the Princess and the Pea atop a high bed of baby romaine leaves. Yet there are no peas between the leaves, only oyster cream with the intense flavour of the shelled crustacean, combined with the complex saltiness of the airy whey butter on top. Oysters, lettuce and whey – so simple and yet incredibly delicious. There are some miscues. A large pile of onion skins is unappetising because of the coarse texture and overt raw onion flavour that cuts through the otherwise excellent dressing of tamari, lime, and sesame seeds. On the other hand, the dessert is perfectly tuned with a chewy caramel, caramel cream and flakes of soy meringue seasoned with wasabi. The spicy root gives just the kick needed to escort the caramel instead of derailing it. Paired with a glass of oxidised dessert wine from the Jura winemaker Domaine de Cavarodes, which also plays on the caramel notes, we couldn’t possibly ask for anything more. While the wait staff are pleasant and friendly, their knowledge of the food and wine is quite limited, so oenophiles are left to their own devices. But the bartenders, sharply dressed in white tuxedo jackets, are eminently knowledgeable about their cocktails – both alcoholic and non-alcoholic. The mocktail with lemon and liquorice root syrup is a stroke of genius, where the liquorice adds depth without dominating the spectrum of flavours. If you enjoy dining in bustling but relaxing surroundings without compromising on culinary quality or complexity, then Geist is among Copenhagen’s best bets...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.