From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Klosternakken 8, 4720 Præstø
- Phone: +45 55 90 90 30
- Web: frederiksminde.com
- Seats: 40
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 12 noon-10 PM, Closed Sun-Mon
A masterful kitchen by the fjord
Præstø is often considered to be an unremarkable dot on the outskirts of metropolitan Denmark, but this is where Chef Jonas Mikkelsen creates small gastronomic miracles on par with the nation’s finest restaurants. He has a flair for creating incredibly delicious cuisine with just a few simple ingredients, as exemplified in the highlight of the evening: a slice of hay-baked rutabaga, fried in butter and smoked in a pan with the hay. The soft, sweet rutabaga is covered by a layer of crunchy black sesame seeds and a sauce of warm crème fraîche, salted to the max. This exceptional dish is soft and crisp, sweet, acidic, and smoky-rich, all at once. It unequivocally deserves signature status at this establishment, where they are driven by seasonal awareness and where even the likes of rutabaga and celeriac can be kings for an evening. We too feel like royalty, sitting in the sunroom’s comfortable chairs at large tables clad with stiff white tablecloths. The deliberately antique interior is a fun wormhole through time, but the room is a bit large for the few tables and the acoustics are poor. We have the feeling that other guests can eavesdrop on our conversation if we raise our voices even the slightest. However, nearly every dish is perfectly balanced. The snacks alone offer a deft array of sublime flavours. For example, the luxury take on sour cream and onion crisps, here with dill and vinegar dust and a cream of smoked witch flounder. The intensity of a small cup of mushroom broth with fermented celeriac juice brings literal tears of joy. The kitchen masters both the subdued and the elegant with preparations built on classic French cuisine. A prime example is the perfectly steamed lemon sole with burnt Tuscan kale and a wonderful sauce nage with a meticulous balance of buttery richness and acidity, held in the tight corset of a firm, mineral white from Languedoc. Other times, the ingredients speak for themselves. A large langoustine tail is served naked and then bathed in pine oil, browned butter and reduced cream. The richness and sweetness are distinctly underpinned by a skin-fermented natural chenin blanc from South Africa. The unconventional wines are well chosen and have at least one leg in the world of natural wines, though they are not presented as such. Instead, the waiter provides an insightful and engaging account of their pairing with the dishes. The desserts fall fully in the throes of Nordic traditions. An airy walnut mousse is freshened up with a French sorrel granité and tiny cubes of green apple and celery. Such desserts often end up as an exercise in sugar-free asceticism, but in the hands of Mikkelsen it proves a happy marriage of the sweet, rich and fresh. A creamy celeriac ice cream with caramel and layers of caramelised chicken skin and mushroom dust is a rich and earthy autumn greeting, paired nicely with a caramelly dessert wine from Friuli made from dried grapes. Hotel Frederiksminde has emphatically made Præstø one of the gastronomic shining lights of provincial Denmark...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.