From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Trädgårdsgatan 15-19, 387 31 Borgholm
- Phone: +46 485 770 60
- Web: hotellborgholm.com
- Seats: 65
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat from 6 PM. High season open also Monday. Closed Jan-Feb
- Directions: See Google Map underneath
The flavours of Öland
For more than 30 years Karin Fransson and her husband Owe have been running this inn on Öland, she at the pots and he standing ready with a highlighter pen at his podium to check off the evening’s guests. Mrs. Fransson’s kitchen is sophisticatedly elegant, with its own high profile. She has made a name for herself – close to the status of international legend – by using exciting local flowers, leaves and herbs, popularizing the use of everything from marigolds to oysterleaf. Now it seems as if “the herb queen of the island” has turned up her technique ambitions (perhaps because of the star that landed on the place in 2016), somewhat overshadowing the focus on local ingredients. We are served sourdough bread with liquorice, and butter whipped with white balsamic, and goat's cheese cream topped with lovage. Not a lot of Öland there. Late summer has always been the best season to enjoy Borgholm’s gastronomy, when it’s based around beets, summer chanterelles, lamb, sweetbreads and always strawberries and of course, seasonings from their own herb garden. The lamb now comes from the mainland, though the waiter does not know exactly where. Sometimes it can be nice not have to hear where each plant had its root or in which pasture the lamb fell silent, but we wish the staff were more knowledgeable, or ready and willing to return with an answer when they are not. The elevated technical level and the eagerness to modernize many components and structures do not always hit their mark. Sure, the steamed turbot works with elderflower-perfumed green pea sauce and lesser calamint, even if it comes with “pacotized” yoghurt and lemon-flavoured snow. But a slow-braised veal tongue with fried sweetbreads topped by “street food onion rings” and red onions, raspberries, caperberries and oxalis flowers scattered around the plate simply does not come together, and is hardly helped by “red beet” in five consistencies. Rather, one of the tasting menu’s best dishes is a wonderfully simple radish, thinly sliced and served in brown butter with a sourdough cracker on the side. With eager anticipation we look forward to the wine tasting dinners that Owe Fransson mentions he is thinking about starting so that visitors get a chance to taste the many treats on their wine list, including a particularly impressive Pomerol section...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.