From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Nyhavn 63A, 1051 København K
- Phone: +45 33 33 03 39
- Web: restauranthummer.dk
- Seats: 42
Maritime class in Nyhavn
There are few things that can beat the atmosphere of an outdoor restaurant along the docks of Copenhagen’s Nyhavn on a sunny spring day. Add to this a wonderful meal at a reasonable price, and you’ve got pure bliss. We are welcomed by a young woman who also is our server for the day. She quickly proves to be highly knowledgeable about both food and wine. The first impression to arrive from the kitchen is a crisp bread with the consistency of puff pastry, baked with buttermilk and whole sage leaves, adding a strong, herby flavour balanced by the accompanying homemade butter with salty grains. For a very reasonable price, we order a serving of 30 grams of sustainable baerii caviar served on blinis. The large, bright fish eggs reveal elegant nut and umami notes, balanced by the slightly acidic organic crème fraîche and walnut. Another sublime dish is fresh green asparagus, sweet and sour pickled white asparagus sprinkled with leek ash and an oyster emulsion that together form a symphony of sea and spring flavours, adeptly matched by a huge-bodied 2013 chardonnay from Rustenberg in South Africa that combines great thickness with elegant acidic structure. Grilled leek with whole, lightly grilled Danish squid – akin to sushi in bite and pure fish flavour – a lightly smoked bacon sauce and a black, faintly sweet cream of fermented garlic, all garnished with fresh ramson leaves, is aesthetically pleasing and a light yet generous taste experience. A crisp grilled turbot is delicate, white, firm and juicy, served with onion rings filled with foam of whipped Vesterhavsost cheese and dill oil. A half lobster with lemon, dill and mayonnaise – the eponymous restaurant’s muse (hummer is the Danish word for lobster) – is delicious but difficult to eat without making a mess. The meat is perfectly prepared, releasing fresh shellfish sweetness and mineral notes of the sea...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.