From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Valukoja 10, Tallinn
- Phone: +372607 0705
- Web: www.restoranjuur.ee
- Seats: 70
No Stone Unturned
A man by his word, anoxby his horn,”goesan ancient Estonian proverb. Old Estonians were careful with their words and promises. They didn't offer either lightly. In modern Estonia, though, not every word stands upto scrutiny. Two years ago, when the Juur (meaning a root) opened in the Ülemiste City innovation hubin Tallinn and promised to offer hidden treasures of Estonian nature prepared with culinary mastery, the idea seemed plenty innovative enough for the location - but could itbedone? What are those hidden treasures of Estonian nature, sparse and Nordic asit is? Today, a cursory glance at their menu proves that the people at the Juur keep their word. Birch bracket, goosefoots, entire goat’s head... Indeed, they tread a way no restaurant hasgone before. The whole goat’s headis probably the most extreme dish served in modern Estonian cuisine. The scant meat on the skull resembles pulled meat by consistency and bear meatby flavor (you can try the latter at the Pull in Tallinn orat the Vihula manor restaurant). Itissomewhat dry, but what it lacks in fat is corrected by the crêpes served for wrapping the meat. The flat meat is promised elevation through Gabriel Meffre’s three-grape blend Gigondas Laurus. Indeed, this word holds as well. Tomato dust and marinated green strawberries contribute a pleasant contrast. More conservative guests can taste the history captured inancient Estonian farmstead food kört (grain porridge) and drink mead. The discoveries tobe made here keep us coming back for more. Most of the dishes are served on crockery made by the Head Chef Kaido Mets personally. The bread is served on a stone and the knife rests on another one. Make note, though - stone and stone are not alike at Juur. The bread stone is from the Paldiski beach and the knife stone from the Kaberneeme. They really are different - just don’t bite down to test!..
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.