From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Valukoja 10, Tallinn
- Phone: +372607 0705
- Web: www.restoranjuur.ee
- Seats: 70
Juur is a way of life
Juur’s roots reach deep into… coffee. In the cold Nordic climate, coffee is an important beverage. The more important something is, the harder people work to improve it. Juur, which means roots in Estonian, is owned by Gourmet Coffee, a leader of the country’s new wave-coffee scene; the first company to source rare coffee beans at auctions, and the first to roast them in-house. Now, they have taken it even further: Gourmet Coffee teaches coffee farmers in developing countries to grow precious beans, they also buy their first crops. This background information is necessary to understand that Juur is more than just a restaurant. Juur is a way of life. It’s the flagship restaurant at Ülemiste City, the Silicon Valley of Northern Europe, a breeding ground for innovation. And while lunch here is more than just something that eases hunger, dinnertime is when you really want to pay a visit. The newly opened restaurant offers a truly ambitious fine dining experience, focused on developing the definitive version of New Estonian Cuisine. It gets its produce from its own farm in Southern Estonia and is currently developing an urban farm right next door. Juur’s food is different––you’ll understand what we mean as soon as bread is brought to the table. This is hemp bread, it looks and tastes different than any other bread in Estonia. There is something unique and boldly unprecedented about everything that Juur does, from said hemp bread to pinecone tea. Juur has its roots in the kind of soil where others do not dare to tread. Growing local produce is a skill that was lost during the Soviet period, the tradition was broken and recovery doesn’t happen overnight, so even the most ambitious restaurants tend to be overly respectful to local ingredients. Juur is not. It’s also not ashamed of being a bit green and making mistakes. Though these don’t end up on the plates, guests’ limits are nonetheless tested when traditional main ingredient are combined with unexpected flourishes and techniques like making jelly from classic bread soup. Traditional rye porridge gets an update with goat cheese, crispy groats, quince and salted lemon, making for a completely new interpretation. At Juur, you can see that local Estonian beverages are starting to recover the ground lost to foreign drinks. Craft beers and ciders are already old hat; now it is time for the berry wines, which until now have been only served with desserts. But of course you can’t leave Juur without trying the coffee...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.