From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Baunevej 18, 3720 Aakirkeby
- Phone: +45 56 97 82 50
- Web: kadeau.dk
- Seats: 55
- Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 12 noon-4 PM, 5:30 PM-12 midnight
Ten years in and still in top form
The summer cottage is nestled with an unequivocally impressive front row view, high above the Baltic Sea on Bornholm’s southern coast. The decor is simple and kept in light tones; there are no tablecloths on the tables and the sound system plays subdued soft jazz throughout the evening. The relatively young wait staff are thoroughly professional in a pleasant and relaxed way throughout the 13-course menu. After a handful of small dishes featuring such delights as oysters, cabbage and mussels, the bread arrives as a serving on its own: warm flatbread with fermented corn juice, which is also mixed into the butter. It tastes good, but after a few bites we are ready to move on. We would prefer the more traditional serving, with the bread at our side throughout the meal, so we could also use it to soak up the delicious sauces. We move on from here to a dish with a wide array of elements, including raw scallops resting in a sauce of horseradish with golden beet and hemp, top shoots of Norway spruce, and grated dried roe on top. The flavour notes of the various elements of sea, forest and meadow, as well as their textures, come together in symbiotic unity. The juice menu’s pairing of gooseberries and horseradish both mirrors and complements the dish exquisitely. A slice of pickled and baked pumpkin topped with a sprinkling of Bornholm forest ants –purported to be the most scrumptious in Denmark – and petals from the invasive beach rose is accompanied by a sauce of white asparagus with a nice acidity. It is an incredibly well-balanced and delectable dish, as the pumpkin’s sweetness, the sauce and the acidity of the ants suit one another beautifully. Especially entertaining is when you bite directly into a ant, releasing a powerful explosion of citrusy sourness on the tongue. A skewer with tender lamb neck and folded slices of veal tongue are marinated in a strong BBQ marinade and served with cabbage and an intense jus. The dish is full of deep flavour, but unfortunately doesn’t meet much resistance from the somewhat too light Beaujolais, Côte du Py 2015 from Jean Foillard, which also fails to impress on its own, despite the waiter’s assurance that this is one of the two best vignerons in the appellation. However, the tables are turned by the wine served with the two desserts. Keller’s wonderful auslese, Westhofener Kirchspiel 2015, has a deep body with notes of honey, pear and a touch of limestone, and still has quite a bit of fresh young acidity. Both of the desserts are refreshingly light. First, a long roll of crisp apple with caramel, served in a clear cold soup with the flavours of sweet cicely, buckler leaf sorrel and rhubarb root. This is followed by a compote of diverse berries from the restaurant’s own garden, seasoned with walnut aquavit and homemade sour cream. In both of these dishes, the sweet flavour elements take a backseat to the more acidic, which we appreciate greatly after the myriad preceding dishes. However, sweetness is centre stage in the Auslese, and it is a perfect pairing. Kadeau Bornholm understands how to playfully utilise the island’s fantastic ingredients at an innovative and masterful gastronomic level...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.