From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Wildersgade 10B, 1408 Copenhagen
- Phone: +45 33 25 22 23
- Web: kadeau.dk
- Seats: 30
- Opening Hours: Tue-Wed 6 PM-12 midnight, Thu-Sat 12 noon-4 PM, 6 PM-12 midnight, Closed Sun-Mon
Artistic spirit of Bornholm
Arriving at building 10B on a cobblestone street, we ring the bell and immediately feel like invited guests. The door opens and we are guided through Kadeau’s heart – the kitchen – and escorted to soft furniture with a cup of warm bouillon. The mirage of a visit with friends would be complete if someone sat down and enjoyed the delicious drink with us, but the chefs in the open kitchen are busy. They are likely chopping and slicing, given that virtually every dish this evening is comprised of countless tiny elements – perhaps too many, in fact, as many of the dishes seem to lack leading roles and links to bring together the diversity of details. Kadeau’s renowned boyish spontaneity seems replaced by a more controlled style, but there remains no doubt that the majestic isle of Bornholm is the common thread. No dish reflects this as clearly as a crisp biscuit filled with a cornucopia of small pickled leaves and flowers, including cypress, chamomile, seaweed, rhubarb, elderflower capers, dried rose hips and morsels of poached mahogany clam. The dish is a delicate, edible business card, a reduction of the fields and sandy beach meadows of Chef Nicolai Nørregaard and Restaurant Manager Magnus Høegh Kofoed’s native island. The owners are not here themselves, but a sharp corps of waiters and chefs adroitly serves us with a relaxed charm. Kadeau has an international vibe; one feels transmogrified into a Kinfolk magazine, sitting in the elegant dining room with its shades of turquoise, wood and gold, and drinking biodynamic wines and sumptuous juices with the menu. The wines stay on the safe side of the modern wine spectrum and the juices are fresh, aromatic and well paired. The best “juice” is a blend of fermented white tea and pickling brine with a lovely aroma. It nicely accompanies a light-hearted dish of lumpfish with tiny pickled bits of Bornholm’s summertime bounty. Pickles are a recurring theme in Nørregaard’s kitchen, but the characteristic acidity underlying Kadeau’s reputation has been turned down a notch. We discover this in the beautiful signature dish with a thousand layers of preserved vegetables: this evening it includes cabbage, beets, salted plums and dashi made of dried trout. It is undoubtedly beautiful, but it tastes a bit bland. On the other hand, the flavours are turned up to full-blast with the skin-fermented vermentino from Italy’s Massa Vecchia that accompanies a dish of langoustine under lavender and shaved walnuts. The slightly bitter and perfumed notes of the orange wine prove a good match for the dish. Like so much else this evening, the langoustine is cut into small pieces, which causes its flavour to drown in the other dominant elements. By now we are longing for something to really chew on. Our wish is granted with a large fillet of aged pork, perfectly prepared with good flavour, that is surprisingly simple and robust compared to the menu’s other dishes. After a handful of desserts, petits fours and aromatic filtered coffee, we step out into the Christianshavn night with the memory of an intellectual Borholmian meal that seems more firmly rooted in the world of art than food...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.