From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Oyggjarvegur 45, 100 Tórshavn
- Phone: +298 33 39 99
- Web: www.koks.fo
- Seats: 50
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 6:30 PM-12 midnight, Closed Sun-Mon
A toast to the sea
KOKS explores and experiments with the untapped possibilities inherent in the surrounding Faroese landscape of sea, fjords, fields, meadows, and beaches, while practicing traditional fermentation methods and seeking sublime culinary experiences with respect for vulnerable species and the environment. The restaurant decor features plank flooring, lambskin on the chairs and oak tables free of tablecloths or pressed napkins, with a breathtaking panoramic view to the surroundings outside. All of the dishes are rooted in local traditions and ingredients. Fish, sheep, seaweed (complete with parasites) and herbs are caught, harvested or fermented daily, just a few hundred metres from the kitchen. Live shellfish are kept in the restaurant’s underwater pantry. The menu comprises 19 unforgettably delicate courses, all of which demonstrate extreme Faroese gastronomic savvy, in addition to a wine list stocked with superbly paired top wines from renowned winemakers in strong vintages. Head Chef Poul Andrias Ziska presents the dishes himself, while Head Sommelier Karin Visth selects and presents the drinks, including wines and the incomparable range of non-alcoholic drinks that she brews herself to match the menu’s potpourri of unconventional flavours. Ocean quahog garnished with dried elderflower is served on the shell in a purée of its own meat and mushroom sauce. The taste of sea from the raw clam is counterbalanced by the oily morel notes and elderflower acidity of the sauce. Fried swim bladder of cod with a cream of leek and ramson is decoratively served on cod vertebrae. The swim bladder is crisp and light as a pork rind without the fat, offering the generous pure flavour of cod, while the ramson’s notes of garlic and the leek’s creaminess hold contrasts in taste and texture. Both fish and lamb are traditionally fermented in the Faroe Islands in a so-called hjallur (a wind-blown shed) where they change in structure, aroma and flavour. “Ræstur” is the half-dried stage this meat reaches after three months. A soup of ræst lamb is served with roasted mealworms, crisp slices of kohlrabi, radish, onion and carrot. The aromas in the steam bash through one’s senses with notes of rancid lamb fat, while the strong flavour packs deep umami tones. Garnatálg is the lining surrounding the lamb’s intestines and stomach, fermented for three months in a net of the lamb’s caul fat. It is served as a bright and appetising layer atop the fermented then boiled ræst fish. These delights are eaten on a traditional Faroese biscuit called a góðarað. The flavour is intense, pure cod with the garnatálg serving as an able substitute for butter in both taste and texture. Northern fulmar is a sea bird that breeds on the wind-blown cliffs of the Faroese coastline. When they fly from the nest, the chicks are so fat that they splash into the sea and can then be fished up by boat. As the flapping of wings has not yet toughened the breast, the pink roasted meat is extremely tender, with a coarse fibre structure and distinctive fish flavour, while the fat cap has strong notes of whale oil. These flavours are matched well by boiled, burnt and dried beetroot. Crisp candied stalks of angelica, which grows and thrives on the windy islands, is served as candy under the moniker confiture d’angélique. These so-called "candies" full of vitamin C, aromatically spiced and fresh, yet sweet with notes of fresh quince and candied citrus peel. One is rarely on familiar grounds here, yet a secure feeling of being safely in the hands of a master reigns throughout this culinary voyage...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.