From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
Kong Hans Kælder
- Address: Vingårdstræde 6, 1070 Copenhagen
- Phone: +45 33 11 68 68
- Web: konghans.dk
- Seats: 60
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 6 PM-10:30 PM, Closed Sun-Mon
Safeguarding the crown jewels of Danish gastronomy
Kong Hans exudes quality, from the historic setting, inviting decor and ingredients of the finest calibre, to the masterful kitchen of Head Chef Mark Lundgaard, the impressive world-class service from the staff of waiters, and no less than two renowned sommeliers, Peter Pepke and Nina Jensen, the latter of which was recently named Best Nordic Sommelier. The restaurant’s quality is further bolstered by its 40-year history as a Danish pillar of classic gastronomy. Here you can expect to enjoy oysters, foie gras, lobster, pigeon and generous amounts of butter and cream. Indeed, somebody must protect the culinary crown jewels from a bygone era – and that is exactly what Kong Hans is doing, with the talent of Mark Lundgaard notably shaping the interpretations. The foie gras is not as heavy as expected – in fact, quite the contrary. A thick slice served with a pain d’epices sounds like a bomb, but the slightly acidic cherry “vinegar” lifts and lightens the dish, almost causing the taste of the fatty liver to seem fresh. Peter Pepke charts our course for the evening’s wines. The servings are presented with attentiveness, discretion and sincere interest in the pleasure of the guests. They guide us impressively through the wine list, inviting us to explore the whole world of wines, even though the heart of the list is in France. The seasonal appetisers are paired to our delight with a 2006 Tattinger Comtes de Champagne. The classic bubbles open the palate to the flavours of fried quail egg, snail toast, oysters with elderflower and venison consommé, as we consider the extravagant options offered by the à la carte menu. The lobster emerges victorious. How often are you served a whole Danish lobster at the table, prepared à la nage, à la américaine and Thermidor, fulfilling your butter quota for the entire next week, thanks in part to the irresistibly ethereal brioche? The excellent Gillardeau oysters are both inventive and extremely delicate. The acidity of a rosehip compote and zing of horseradish cream are brilliant with the rich and salty taste of the oysters, while kohlrabi adds crunch to the soft flesh. Our delight is complete with a Chassagne-Montrachet, whose elegant balance of acidity and ripe apple pairs perfectly with the oysters. Today’s five-course menu features such dishes as scallop with pickled onion skins and Oscietra caviar, followed by the highlight of the menu: a poached halibut with the old-school touch of a Noilly Prat sauce with whitefish caviar. This is creamy goodness, heartily salted with an acidic and bitter edge. Once again, Lundgaard’s talent manages to lighten the taste of a heavy classic. In the wake of the halibut come veal sweetbreads with morels, as well as a guinea fowl en cocotte with endive and truffle. These are followed by a delightful “ice cream parlour” where the pastry chef offers a wide selection of fresh fruit sorbets and small traditional Danish cookies. We have no choice but to raise the white flag upon arrival at the delicious homemade chocolates: we are fully satiated. Kong Hans is not cheap, but you can suffice with just a few dishes and a glass of wine, while still enjoying a cloud-nine culinary experience...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.