From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Hotel d'Angleterre, Kongens Nytorv 34, 1050 Copenhagen
- Phone: +45 33 12 00 94
- Web: marchal.dk
- Seats: 70
- Opening Hours: Mon-Thu 12 noon-4:30 PM, 6 PM-10 PM, Fri-Sat 12 noon-4:30 PM, 6 PM-11 PM, Sun 12 noon-3 PM, 6 PM-10 PM
Want to try Copenhagen’s most luxurious version of carbonara? Head for Hotel d’Angleterre and Marchal where Chef Andreas Bagh serves up squid tagliatelle-style in champagne butter sauce with oysters, cucumber, and of course, a generous dollop of Rossini Gold Selection Caviar to top it all off. It is quite simply a divine dish, where the oyster’s minerality and the umami in the sauce are elegantly balanced by the bright cucumber and the briny caviar. The texture of the squid is silky but still has a little bite to it, and together with the popping caviar provides an intriguing mouthfeel. It is a dish made for champagne, and the wine list here gives you every opportunity to splurge on a bottle. Marchal is doubtless the poshest place in Copenhagen to dine, and all the trimmings are certainly in place: spotless service, knowledgeable sommeliers, plush décor, and panorama windows that face the heart of Copenhagen: Kongens Nytorv. Though there’s a seemingly never-ending construction project going on in the square, obscuring any view, we still enjoy the steady stream of exclusive sports cars gliding up to the curb outside the hotel, providing ample fuel for who’s-who gossip between the courses. Posh, yes, but thanks to the fact that Marchal caters to a hotel clientele, the menu is all à la carte, so the curious gastro-traveller can actually slip in for a couple of dishes without having to order a complete tasting menu. While we wouldn’t call it affordable (mid-size servings start at DKK 200) it is certainly more accessible than many other restaurants in this range – and it’s even open for lunch. All other things aside, the food is worth a visit in its own right. This is a very self confident kitchen, well grounded in the French culinary tradition, but doubtlessly influenced by modern Nordic cooking – complemented with a pinch of spice here and there from all over the world. Two of Bagh’s other top scorers this year are the intensely flavoured confited sweetbreads with morels and sherry, seamlessly matched with an aged Brunello, and an Iberico secreto with walnuts and velvety sandalwood flavours from a seasoning with black cardamom. The desserts are lavish, with portions as large as the savoury dishes, and a tad less sophisticated. Like the signature “Gold bar” where a hazelnut, coffee and truffle bar is covered in gold leaf flakes and served with calvados ice cream. It’s intense and packed with flavour, but on the heavy side after a large dinner – although we wouldn’t mind at all popping in and devouring it with a coffee as an indulgent afternoon treat...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.