From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
Marg og bein
- Address: Fosswinckels gate 18, 5007 Bergen
- Phone: +47 55 32 34 32
- Web: marg-bein.no
- Seats: 65
- Opening Hours: Tue-Thu 5–10 PM, Fri-Sat 2-10 PM Sunday 5-10pm may-december Jan-apri tue-thu 4-9 pm Fri-Sat 2-10pm Sunday 4-9 pm
To the bone
Marg & Bein (“Marrow and bone”) is a rustic restaurant with an atmosphere that is the definition of Norwegian ”hygge”, or cosiness. The wooden house is snug and warm with candlelit tables and sheep fleeces draped over the pinewood chairs. The whole room conveys Norwegian nature, raw and pure. There are pictures of cold and snowy landscapes on the walls; the tables are decorated with jars of animal bones, and vases containing dried flowers. The decor features grandmother's bureau and more jars, filled with preserves. At Marg & Bein, the atmosphere is informal, just like the clientele and the food. Today’s menu is representative of the restaurant’s style – it consists of chicken livers, pork cheeks and lemon cream with meringue. Marg & Bein cooks substantial food using the whole animal, which suits the hard, Nordic climate. The dishes are often rich and nutritious due to ingredients like cod tongue and marrow-bones. Unfortunately the pork cheek dish is disappointing, poorly balanced in taste and texture, with dry, over-cooked beans and drowned salad leaves. But the rest of the dishes are tasty and well composed. Veal sweetbreads with fried capers and mustard mayonnaise is an exciting, salty combination of fat and crunch. The restaurant’s classic dish of beef cheeks with mashed potatoes and baked vegetables is still on the menu and just as tender and flavourful as last year. The waitress is very helpful with drink recommendations and when she has time for it, she is happy to share her knowledge by telling a little about the producers. The focus on coffee is not as strong as it once was, but the restaurant still makes it from freshly ground beans...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.