From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Bedervej 101, 8320 Mårslet
- Phone: +45 86 93 71 95
- Web: restaurant-mejeriet.dk
- Seats: 40
- Opening Hours: Ons-tors 18-22, fre-lør 12-, søn 10-16
Flavour explosions in Vilhelmsborg Forest
It’s a bitterly cold February day as we fight our way along muddy paths through Vilhelmsborg Forest. Then we catch a glimpse of the light and warmth of the former dairy. A beautiful room with whitewashed walls and arches awaits us, where we find comfortable seating in designer chairs at tables with thick damask tablecloths. At the controls in the kitchen is a distinct gastronomic personality, Allan Poulsen, whose résumé includes stints at Henne Kirkeby Kro and Bagatelle in Oslo. The meal begins with six savoury snacks and we are served three good petits fours as a finale. From end to end the dishes are prepared with pinpoint precision. Two of the starters stand out: the small celeriac ravioli filled with Rømø shrimp is a treat for the palate, as is the complex crisp biscuit with truffle cream and pickled pearl onion with shavings of dried veal heart. It's an orgy of umami, acidity, saltiness and a certain interesting funky taste – exactly the kind of dish you expect from Allan Poulsen. The same goes for the sweet black lobster with chives, garnished with a layer of whitefish roe, wood sorrel and turnip sprouts. This is the first of the dishes on the eight-course menu. Poulsen is able and willing to experiment with the jewels of the sea. Most striking and memorable is the long strip of Danish octopus with gelled beads of green tomato and crisp slices of raw Jerusalem artichoke, served with a split Jerusalem artichoke cream and a small, intense chlorophyll bomb of puréed dill. The acidity, slight liquorice flavour and nutty Jerusalem artichokes are wonderfully paired with the limestone and fruity notes of the white wine from southern French Côtes Catalanes. The wines, like the food, are exquisite and ingeniously paired with the dishes. The list is fondly focused on France, with classics and newcomers alike, but other European bottles also make an appearance. Two of the three richest dishes are based on mushrooms: the fried skate wing comes with porcini flakes and sauce blanquette, wonderfully harmonized with a spätburgunder from Pfalz, while the mushroom-infused sago porridge with a sauce made from mallard gizzards and hearts is served with a heavenly 2012 Barolo from Mauro Molino, La Morra. Our highly attentive waiter professionally and discreetly ensures that we are well informed and supplied with food and drink throughout the evening. Among the sweet dishes, the winner is the signature desert: a white chocolate sphere filled with pickled late-summer raspberries, milk chocolate with coffee and burnt hazelnut in a crisp croustade (harking back to the starter of crisp biscuit with truffle), a pickled plum with dark chocolate ganache and crispy wood sorrel salad, and lastly a small trio of all three chocolates on their own. Even after the extensive eight-course menu with many small snacks and sweets in between, we leave Mejeriet in high spirits and in awe of their impressive surgical craftsmanship...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.