From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Orla Lehmannsgade 3a, 7100 Vejle
- Phone: +45 21 14 00 77
- Web: memu.dk
- Seats: 32
Masterly preparations and flavour combinations
Restaurant MeMu in Vejle is an establishment in rapid development. After having moved to a larger location just one year ago, they are already in need of another expansion. In late summer 2017 the gourmet restaurant will move to a smaller, more intimate location, and the current restaurant will be converted into a brasserie. MeMu is well attended on this visit, and the clientele are in high spirits. White tiles line the walls around the semi-open kitchen. The light furniture and vibrant atmosphere will be a good match for the coming brasserie, and the gourmet kitchen will benefit from additional room for the contemplation and full concentration that Michael Munk’s exquisite creations deserve. The menu begins with a cured scallop, whose sweetness provides a base for the dish, while cucumber, mint and ramsons add pleasant and familiar aromatic nuances. The flavours are all distinctive, but the mint and ramsons add a particularly scintillating edge that works beautifully in the overall composition. Precise dollops of yoghurt support the scallop’s creamy and rich texture, while hazelnuts add a bit of crunch to the canvas. Sommelier and co-owner Mette Derdau presents an excellent pairing from Tenerife. Made with the listán blanco grape, which is also used for sherry, the wine has a complex and slightly oxidised character that captures both the herbs and nuts of the dish. The wine list features many interesting bottles, but we recommend choosing one of Derdau’s two curated sets of wine pairings. The glasses are poured generously and the knowledgeable service staff are masters of their profession, providing the excellent hospitality characteristic of Denmark’s Jutland peninsula. The kitchen shines with delicious dishes, all of which feature a small culinary twist. In a dish with pork breast, the meat is swathed in bergamot, which penetrates the grilled meat with an acidic and bitter touch in a new and welcome flavour combination, promoting the complexity of the succulent pork, slightly bitter bok choy and crisp fried salsify. The dessert unites caramel, Jerusalem artichokes, vanilla ice cream and a warm sauce of browned butter and brown sugar over a slice of grilled sourdough bread. It’s simple and delicious, and the sourdough’s grainy depth and slight acidity give the dish unique character. With masterful flavour composition in the kitchen, superb service and world-class wines, it is really no surprise that MeMu faces another impending expansion...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.