From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Hovedgaden 16, 8400 Ebeltoft
- Phone: +45 86 36 22 00
- Web: molskroen.dk
- Seats: 50
- Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 12 noon-2 PM, 6 PM-9 PM
Classic flavours and innovative twists
Chef Steffen Villadsen has been responsible for carrying on the proud traditions of Molskroen (Mols Inn) since the beginning of 2016. Lest there be any doubt, let us begin by saying that his high gastronomic ambitions have been realised to the fullest. With a style based on classic French cuisine, Villadsen innovatively combines ingredients in richly detailed and interesting new twists. The first course features Limfjord oysters, quickly fried to intensify the taste of the sea. Savoy cabbage, Høost cheese and toasted wheat berries add deep flavourful notes, while pickled green strawberries add a freshness that plays well against the exotic fruits of a Slovenian orange wine. The wine’s fine acidity and minerality stand up well to the lightly metallic flavour of the oysters. It’s an excellent and creative wine pairing from Restaurant Manager Karina Kannegaard, who came to Molskroen from S’vinbar in Aarhus, bringing with her a number of interesting bottles from the big city. Our waiter playfully “warns” us about the somewhat “nerdy” bottles, but we enjoy the personality, soul and strong storytelling behind the wines, as the small niche winemakers are nicely integrated into the overall composition of the wine menu. Coenobium, the monastery wine from Lazio, is fruity with slightly earthy mushroom notes, making it an excellent match with the next serving’s duxelles of mushrooms and onion. Underneath the duxelles is a piece of perfectly cooked line-caught cod with pickled gooseberries and intensely spiced, paper-thin, crispy slices of ventrèche. A marvellous fumet of smoked fish bones rounds out the excellent flavour of this dish. The service is razor sharp in its choreography where the food is paraded proudly to the table on high-raised platters by a small brigade of chefs. The professionalism shines through, but the chefs also bring the presentation down to earth with personal stories about everything from animal welfare to apprenticeship anecdotes. Exclusivity is evident in the decor, with golden copper lamps, light wooden floors and black wooden furniture with cognac leather. And although the service is often reminiscent of a fine French restaurant, the warm smiles of the wait staff remind us that we are still in Jutland after all. The main course is a cut of succulent rabbit saddle with fried foie gras, crisp pickled Nashi pear and a piquant Madagascar pepper glaze that provides a sharp contrast to the sweet pear and deliciously rich foie gras. Slightly bitter walnuts and fresh celery ensure that the dish touches on the full spectrum of tastes, resulting in perfect harmony. A visit to Molskroen is a consummate dining experience that expertly combines classic virtues with contemporary trends. Delicious flavours and French cuisine remain the solid foundation of the inn, even as refreshing new ideas from near and far wash in from Ebeltoft Bay...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.