From the White Guide Nordic 2018:

Nautical

Very Fine Level 70
Food rating:30/40Service rating:15/20
BarChambre separéeBanqueting roomsParkingTables outsideWheelchair accessVegetarian dishesAmerican Express
  • Address: Hamngatan 2, 22100 Mariehamn
  • Phone: +358 (0)18 19 931
  • Web: nautical.ax
  • Seats: 150
  • Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 11 AM-11 PM, Sat 5 PM-12 PM
Nautical

Fair winds and large portions

In the middle of reading the menu we notice that the Pommern is gone! Instead of the four-masted steel barque that is usually moored in the harbour outside Nautical and the Åland Maritime Museum, now there is nothing but the (albeit beautiful) glittering waters of Mariehamn. Our first look at the menu inspires fears that that resourceful simplicity that charmed us on previous visits might also be missing. Toast Skagen and flounder meunière sound undeniably like dishes you might find on the menu of a small town hotel. But after assurances that the museum ship has only been temporarily relocated for maintenance, and a delicious amuse-bouche in the form of Jerusalem artichoke soup with smoky bits of lamb tartare and crisp black bread, we feel much calmer. When Skagen à la Chädström turns out to be chock-full of horseradish, and the witch flounder majestically sails in like the Pommern on a 1:2 scale with zesty pickled fennel and a decadent buttery champagne sauce, all our worries are blown away. It’s a bit intimidating to eat, but there is nothing not to like when it’s this intensely delicious. “The cod has arrived!” exclaims our very social waiter, pointing out the fishing spot beside some islets just beyond the harbour entrance. On the plate the fish swim à la bourguignonne, in red wine sauce with diced pork and mushrooms. A nice, smooth potato crème completes the plate. This dish is also rather hefty, but just the right amount of nourishment on a bleak late-winter night in expectation of spring – and the Pommern’s return...

To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.

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