From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
NOA Chef’s Hall
- Address: Ranna tee 3, Tallinn
- Phone: +372 508 0589
- Web: noaresto.ee/en/head-chef-hall
- Seats: 50
Smoke and Fire
Since the beginning of time, mankind prepared food with smoke and fire and nothing else. The invention of electricity changed everything. But to move forward, you sometimes have to take a few steps back. The frontrunner of Estonian fine dining, NOA Chef’s Hall, makes a fine art outof this balancing act. Modern kitchen equipment has been carted away into the kitchen of the simpler NOA restaurant under the same roof. And now, when the evening drowns the restaurant in shadows, if you were to turn out the lights, you’d see a smithy rather than a kitchen: hungry flames, radiant coals,and smoke... But fine dining is very much present. Preparing cutting-edge food inan ancient way isaneven finer art; the chef displays his skill unassisted by modern technology. A saucepan isbubbling on the coals, and a burning piece of timber is sometimes dipped into help with the authenticity of the flavor. There is more. But the guest doesnot need to know every secret of this kitchen. The alliance of robust techniques and fine dining is still young andfragile. There are sights worth seeing already, though. Such as the way diced lard is melted into fat in a metal cone on a bedof coals. The hot fat is then poured over thin slices of elk meatand the meat is proclaimed ready. The Chef’s Hall has two clearly superior tables. One of them is part of the table on which chefs prepare the food. Sitting here feels like taking part in making your food. Everything happens under your eye and in the hand’s reach. The other oneis the back endof the chefs’ L-shaped working table. Like the head chef himself, you won’t miss a single move by a single chef. These tables can be booked atan extra fee. Goonand request them! And one more thing to boldly order: Choose the matching selection of juices! Orif you have company, then consider having one person order the wines and the other the juices. The wine selection is delicious with its progression of rarities. But the juices are better yet. Blood orange with fenchol, pineapple-cucumber-coriander juice, capsicum-chilli-white chocolate drink... At the Chef’s Hall, the guests take their pick from two tasting menus. The longer lists eleven courses and the shorter two fewer. The cuisine, born in smoke and fire,isanimpressive experience even for the most seasoned food lover...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.