From the White Guide Nordic 2018:


Global Masters Level 87
Food rating:36/40Service rating:17/20
ParkingTables outsideVegetarian dishesMainly open during summer time
  • Address: NemuNo Gatve 43, Kaunas
  • Phone: +37061154439
  • Web:
  • Seats: 42

A pedigreed chef shakes up Kaunas

The town of Kaunas is perhaps best known among sports enthusiasts as the home base of Kaunas Zalgiris, one of the world’s best basketball teams. But that doesn't mean it’s had much to offer food enthusiasts. Until now. The culinary scene has changed dramatically lately and if this trend continues Kaunas may soon be Lithuania’s Barcelona. The most prominent star on Kaunas’ gastronomic arena is a new man in town, Chef Matas Paulinas at Nüman. And yes, he’s another Noma alum. He spent many years honing his skills under René Redzepi’s watchful eye, now he’s preparing radical food, hitherto not experienced by Lithuanians. Nüman is a freshly painted exclamation mark. What strikes you first when entering Paulinas’ dining room is that the “mandatory” black color, so ubiquitous in Lithuanian restaurants, is nowhere to be seen. This place is refreshingly white, bright, and spacious. Though it’s minimalist to be sure, the bare tables are set with nothing but glasses and napkins. Open only for dinner, Nüman offers three-, six -or nine-course menus, kept secret until you are seated. To whet appetites, Paulinas offers an amuse of fried potatoes; ingenious spaghetti strips of raw potatoes, coiled into small balls, deep-fried, and covered with koji-vinegar powder. Before popping one in your mouth, you’re instructed to roll it in an accompanying dill emulsion––a very Noma:esque opener, prepared here and there around the world, by other Noma veterans. And while the dish’s pedigree cannot be denied, it’s a bit unfair to Pulinas, as his version has further developed its own character. The menu’s first- and the last dish are the most memorable: cured scallops in grilled cucumber- and elderflower vinegar sauce; white chocolate and yoghurt ganache with marinated cucumber, plum seed cream, and black garlic. The mixed juice- and nectar pairing is a brilliant alternative to wines, using the same ingredients that are presented on the plate ensures the highest possible food-drink harmony. Dinner ends with a dramatic coffee or tea ceremony, the coffee made with a vacuum press, the tea mix created tableside with hot water poured over various fresh herbs...

To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.

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