From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Beckholmsvägen 26, 115 21 Stockholm
- Phone: +46 8 551 531 05
- Web: oaxen.com
- Seats: 76
- Opening Hours: Visit website for opening hours
- Directions: See Google Map underneath
Djurgården’s beauty with a bit of beast
The team at Oaxen has always been early, if not first, on the ball, and so of course they now offer a selection of handcrafted beverages. A battery of “mixers” – sodas with seasonally driven ingredients – lure you in with flavours like raspberry, mint, ginger and burnt honey cola. Add to the alcohol of your choice to make a “grog” or enjoy as a non-alcoholic alternative. The somewhat thin aperitif bubbles from Chartogne-Taillet are served with well-thought-out snacks like confited, fried hedgehog mushrooms with pure forest flavours; typically rich and salty ham from a Linderöd pig, aged 36 months; and fried Brussels sprouts that are juicy on the inside but crispy on the outside. The relatively short wine list with a focus on the organic and biodynamic still manages to cover most situations. And if you ask nicely you might be allowed to order from the wine bible at Oaxen Krog. The steak tartare is a harmony of textures and flavours: soft silverskin onions, silky mustard dressing, bitter cress, crusty sourdough, tangy cream and topside ground to perfect chewiness. Grilled celeriac baked in whey has a complex, deep richness enlivened by whitefish roe and chives. The forest-like flavours continue in a ragout of venison shank with Jerusalem artichokes and ramson capers, and in the dish with grilled duck breast and funnel mushrooms. Do not miss the sides, so carefully conceived that they constitute dishes in their own right. Round off with bread pudding, brown butter, jam and lightly whipped cream. Or the lighter dessert with fresh, macerated blueberries, sorrel, charred meringue and tarragon. Oaxen manages impressively to satisfy many different palates, but still retain its great personality – a warm bistro where the delicious Nordic flavours are purveyed with elegance and knowledge, against Stockholm’s restaurant scene’s loveliest backdrop...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.