From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Operahuset, Karl XII:s Torg, 111 86 Stockholm
- Phone: +46 8 676 58 01
- Web: operakallaren.se
- Seats: 55
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 6 PM-01 AM. December only Christmas dinner. Closed 25/12-15/1 and July
- Directions: See Google Map underneath
King of the classics
The national treasure in the Opera House lives on, trying to find the right balance between past and present, formal and relaxed. This is clearly illustrated in the beautiful fin de siècle interior by the architect trio Claesson Koivisto Rune, whose large angled brass screens, displayed all around, reflect Oscar Björck’s famous frescoed ceilings. Elegant frivolities are also plentiful at the table, not least in the lightly gracious service. In a time where downshifting to casual dining has become the norm, we are thankful that the Main Dining Room stubbornly protects classic restaurant culture. The champagne trolley, one of several magnificent carriages that roll up during the evening, tempts with around ten treats by the glass – like Initial, the first champagne of the evening, from cult producer Jacques Selosse, which was disgorged in January 2016. The house champagne by André Jacquard would make anyone happy. The wine selection here is consistently among the best in Sweden. Restaurateur Carl Frosterud’s whole performance actually outshines by a broad margin that which comes from the kitchen. The parade of amuse-bouches has difficulty engaging us, though the best is a baked egg from Sanda farm in a mushroom cream broken by herb oil and topped with tarragon-rolled matchstick fries – a nice contrast in textures. A lot of greenery pops up here and there in the meal and gets in the way. Coriander takes command over a Belon oyster served in the shell with a cucumber granita. And a seared scallop is totally out of sync with the ferocious chervil oil, which kills the heap of Périgord truffles on top. The menus, which change monthly, are structured modularly. A number of classic main ingredients in traditional preparations are varied with familiar sides and sauces and the always reliable and delicious oyster beurre blanc can elevate any sea creature whatsoever, especially in the company of a hefty scoop of Oscietra caviar, as on the pan-fried Atlantic cod. The foie gras is perfectly seared and challenging in the odd company of liquorice root, lingonberry and almond cream. Pigeon from Bresse is a beloved classic in Catenacci’s kitchen and the delicately seared bird bleeds nicely into its green pepper sauce with pickled elderberry capers. The skillets are at full capacity in the kitchen and the fifth pan-fried item in a row is beef tenderloin, served with its marrow and a composition of onions. The cheese dish is real rock ’n’ roll: a Roquefort with Jerusalem artichoke foam, caramelised hazelnuts and maple syrup, bright, full flavours in fine balance. Getting to roast the marshmallows at the table yourself is now a foregone conclusion here, as is the thimble-full of the house’s “own” calvados, Coeur de Lion...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.