From the White Guide Nordic 2018:


Masters Level 80
Food rating:34/40Service rating:16/20
ParkingTables outsideVegetarian dishes
  • Address: Olevimägi 9, Tallinn
  • Phone: +3726117290
  • Seats: 58

Replacing the Bocca

The Bocca was the single most legendary restaurant in Estonia. It ranked among the world’s 50 top restaurants in the first year of polling. It closed down in 2017 after nearly 20years of uninterrupted service. Now, its old premises house the Ore, a new, completely different restaurant. (Those who were fond of the old Bocca might get confused. The huge round lamps that dominated the interior are still there, still dictating the vibe.) And there seems tobe some kind of magic associated with the space. Because what the Ore isgoing through nowis eerily similar to the trajectory of the Bocca 20 years ago. New restaurants keep popping up like mushrooms after rain. But the Ore inspires more speculation than all the rest put together. The young head chef Silver Saa remains unperturbed by the past and by the circulating rumors. His brand of fine dining initially strained the kitchen staff to their limits. But not the slightest flaw was permitted to pass into the dining hall. The guests complained at first, to the staff and then to their friends, that the wait was long. Then proceeded to admit that the food was well worth it. A new legend was born. And the long waiting times have become a thing of the past. The discussion nowfocuses on the way Silver Saa’s signature cuisine surprises even the most seasoned foodies. Whether a calf’s brain tempura, exotic and obscure, served with estragon cream and horseradish. Or the beetroot, homely and familiar, served as a tartare with ramson cream shiso and salted egg yolk. Silver takes a broad, eclectic approachto food. However, he stops well short of creative chaos. Each dish has its clear, pure leitmotifs. Each course is a harmonious whole. Making the Ore the talk of the town where the Bocca dominated for 20 years is the first great achievement of this young team. We will keep an eye on them tosee what they’lldo next...

To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.

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