From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Kildemarksvej 5, 4760 Vordingborg
- Phone: +45 55 34 30 30
- Web: babette.dk
- Seats: 120
- Opening Hours: Wed-Fri 12 noon-12 midnight, Sat 6 PM-12 midnight
Independence and innovation
It takes something special to maintain a leading gastronomic establishment far from the big city and without the option of overnight accommodations. Yet that is exactly what Chef Vivi Schou has accomplished with Restaurant Babette, which she runs with her husband, Henrik Pedersen. The duo has been accompanied throughout the years by the indelible talent of restaurant manager Brian Jensen, and additions like Partrick Godborg and Jesper Dams Hansen have invigorated the kitchen. Babette’s menu now combines an innovative touch with an unwavering respect for classic gastronomy, as reflected in the chef’s choice to offer guinea fowl this evening. The hospitality is exceptional and you feel almost honoured by the opportunity to taste the treasures of Pedersen’s cellar, from old burgundies to ingenious new purchases from worlds new and old. The decor is dominated by golden woods, copious white tulips and large green plants. Pedersen’s past as a florist shines through. The menu is predominantly green, fresh and from the sea, but you can count on it touching on a full range of flavours. The kitchen brilliantly seasons, properly salts and insightfully uses acidity and richness, all while retaining the delicate and pure flavours of their unique ingredients. The result is exquisite. After a procession of diverse and inventive snacks comes the highlight of the evening: a baked halibut, white and firm, under a canopy of dried oysters with chamomile tea and oyster emulsion, vacuum-prepared daikon sticks and leftover stalks of watercress. Waste is avoided with great ingenuity, and the resulting meal is a testament to the enlightenment and enjoyment a dining experience can deliver. The creaminess of the dish is held in check by the frail, bitter chamomile, while the stalks and daikon add texture and bite. The pumpkin ravioli is a surprising bull’s-eye. There’s cream cheese and rosehips in the filling, but it’s not overly perfumed, and the pasta is topped with a frothy sauce and a generous dose of vadouvan. It’s piquant, acidic, rich, and trailed by a bitter, creamy edge. It becomes all the more spectacular paired with an older vintage of gewürztraminer from Zind-Humbrecht, the first of several extraordinary wine pairings. Next is Pouilly-Fumé paired with clear beef consommé with foie gras and pickled mushrooms, and then a 2004 Chambolle-Musigny, which escorts the moist guinea fowl through three variations on onion and ramson. We particularly enjoy the fresh parsnip dessert with a broken gel of lemon and wheat berries, resting on a base of perfect vanilla ice cream. Babette is well worth a trip for its brilliantly executed delectable cuisine and untethered indulgence...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.