From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Ørneredevej 3, 8000 Aarhus
- Phone: +45 86 14 04 00
- Web: varna.dk
- Seats: 35
- Opening Hours: Wed-Sat 5 PM-12 midnight, Sun brunch (booking required) 10.30 AM-1 PM
Classic grandeur in beautiful surroundings
A summer pavilion overlooking the water casts its golden light on Varna as the staff welcome the diners. We are escorted to the foyer and bestowed with a glass of bubbles. The evening begins in style with a bold serving of snacks to properly pave the way with lobster, an array of dips, breaded minced chicken, puffed sago grains, toasted nuts, grissini and foie gras terrine. Professionalism is a virtue here, as one indulgence follows the other. A huge slice of seared foie gras – the signature ingredient of legendary Aarhusian chef Palle Enevoldsen – balances on a bed of duck rillettes, applesauce and fried brioche topped with raspberry foam. Protein is not in short supply here, nor in the subsequent serving of cured cod. The cuisine predominantly features heavy brown sauces and is umami-packed, but generally lacks acidity. The parade of meat culminates in roasted pork tenderloin with braised cheek of pata negra pork, chestnuts, beetroot and lingonberry sauce. It’s fortunate that our uniquely talented wine server, drawing on excellent presentation and selection skills, finds a 2011 Langhe nebbiolo from Giovanni Almondo to stand up to the intense flavour of the pork, as well as a fresh and memorable pinot noir, Ara Pathway from Marlborough, New Zealand. The transition from meat to sweet fails to please with over-sweetened fried cladonia lichen on an extremely mature Gnalling cheese from Arla Unika. These flavours are offset with a chocolate bar with passion fruit and mango that frolics with a sweet Saussignac wine called Vendanges d’Autrefois. We are certainly being pampered, but we are not on a journey of experimentation and discovery. Varna is a lovely establishment with safe bets and superb service...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.