From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Grand Hôtel, Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8, 103 27 Stockholm
- Phone: +46 8 679 35 84
- Web: www.grandhotel.se/mat-dryck/mathias-dahlgren/rutabaga
Chili, lime and coriander. Avocado and mango. These components are from a lot further afield than Mathias Dahlgren’s former “natural kitchen” concept. With Rutabaga – ”a world-class vegetarian restaurant” – he is headed in a whole new direction and invites us to experience flavours and ingredients from around the world. The interior is decorated with greenery, and naked light bulbs create a warm, welcoming glow. A bartender shakes cocktails – developed in collaboration with the kitchen. We begin with an alcohol-free, homemade kombucha poured over a glass of beautiful red berries. The version with alcohol is based on umeshu plum wine and is topped with tofu foam and small flakes of nori; it smells like sushi and tastes delightful. The appetiser goes well with the drinks – seared spicy pineapple, roasted cashew nuts, sesame bread and fresh yogurt cream. What you see is what you get: Mango and mozzarella are mango and mozzarella; avocado with jalapeño is avocado with jalapeño. The simplicity is striking, but everything is fresh and flavourful. If you want to drink wine, it comes in four different sizes. Choose between light, full, funky or exclusive – white or red. A lot of the dishes follow the formula of “main ingredient plus condiment”. For example, the small, fried falafel-like chickpeas balls are accompanied by of a coarse pea guacamole. The roasted cauliflower comes with a deep-green ”béarnaise”. The highlight of the evening is raw, grated carrots on a bed of silky mayonnaise, sprinkled with peanuts and coriander. Eggs and dairy products are allowed, but rarely play the main role except in a few dishes: a light echo of Dahlgren’s previous restaurant Matsalen, appears in the truffle-laced, fried “twin” egg yolks with large, tender white beans. Rutabaga is the sort of uncomplicated and consistently enjoyable experience we would like to see more of...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.