From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
Slotskøkkenet / Dragsholm slot
- Address: Dragsholm Allé 1, 4534 Hørve
- Phone: +45 59 65 33 00
- Web: dragsholm-slot.dk
- Seats: 45
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 6 PM-9 PM, Closed Sun-Mon
A regional beacon of gastronomy
Past and present meet most deliciously at Dragholm Slot, the over 800-year-old castle which for the past nine years has housed Claus Henriksen’s experimental kitchen. Henriksen traverses the surrounding forests, fields, meadows and beaches in search of ingredients, collecting herbs, roots and berries for the restaurant’s hyper-local, seasonal and personal cuisine. Humble ingredients are often allowed to play a starring role here. Take, for example, the assortment of snacks, which includes a piece of dried “parsnip bark” with the deep and sweet taste of a cigar box, joined by small dots of fresh goat’s cheese; or the folded pancake of nutty celeriac covered with an equally nutty layer of Havgus cheese and a drizzling of pine oil; or the decidedly intense cup of mushroom bullion, slurped through a spoon of smoked whipped cream. In the castle cellar we enjoy a peaceful fire around an open hearth, sitting in the comfort of stylish Wegner chairs. The lime-plastered castle walls absorb every sound, so that even when this restaurant is at full capacity, you can still take part in pleasant conversation. The menu starts with cabbage confit in perfectly straight, layered rows with Norwegian scallops, topped with the salty sea flavour of clam juice. Pickled elderflower buds hold the sweetness and richness in check, paired beautifully with a glass of local white wine from Odsherred made with solaris grapes, whose bold aroma of elder bolsters the exquisite acidity of the dish. A thin layer of sliced, baked “egg yolk” potatoes (a Danish variety of small, round and very yellow potatoes) are topped at the table with a smoked butter sauce and caviar; the smoke and potato flavours compliment one another exquisitely. Claus Henriksen makes vegetables shine in a way that makes you forget all about meat-based proteins. We are blown away by the main course, composed of nothing but onions prepared in myriad ways. A layer of “onion leather” made of browned onions covers approximately 100 tiny pearl onions in a bold glaze, which of course is garnished by the season’s first ramsons: it’s a harmony of sweetness and acidity and incredibly delicious. The pure fruit and fresh notes of an unoaked frappato from Sicily cut nicely through the dish. There is also room for some meat, and it’s naturally a cut that is often overlooked and bereft of praise. Braised veal tongue is rolled in a herby veal mince to form sausages and served with croutons fried to a crisp in tallow. The intense flavours are brought together by chicken liver with cognac and a thick, reduced veal jus. The dishes are accompanied by natural wines, matched skilfully by sommelier Peter Fagerland throughout the evening. A more pleasant countenance than Fagerland would be hard to imagine; his calm and comfortable manner enhances the overall experience. In short, Dragsholm Slot rises up as one of the nation’s brightest beacons of gastronomy...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.