From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Søllerødvej 35, 2840 Holte
- Phone: +45 45 80 25 05
- Web: soelleroed-kro.dk
- Seats: 60
- Opening Hours: Wed-Sun 12 noon-5 PM, 6 PM-01 AM, Closed Mon-Tue
A sublime dining experience
If there’s one place we dream of dining again, it is Søllerød Kro. Chef Brian Mark Hansen, Restaurant Manager Jan Restorff and the entire crew embrace you with warmth, offering delicious plates displaying their courageous gastronomic endeavours. The foundation of the cuisine is classic in terms of both wine and food, but Hansen and Restorff enchant and thrill us with a meal filled with enjoyment, exploration and surprise. Hansen’s kitchen manages to make caviar, oysters, langoustine, foie gras and pigeon seem bright, light and almost green. Restorff draws on the powers of his skilled nose and his deep insight to weave compelling stories and, with his empathetic understanding of each diner, he presents you with wines you will not soon forget. Take the halibut confit, served on a bed of buerre blanc with yuzu, pomelo, whitefish roe and a sprinkling of nutty fried Jerusalem artichoke and breadcrumbs, paired with the petroleum of a 2014 riesling, Ungeheuer GG, from Von Winning in Pfalz. The wine bores straight into the nutty Jerusalem artichoke and browned butter, while delivering an acidity unintimidated by the citrus fruit. The almost vegetarian dish with slices of celeriac, crisp chicken skin and artichoke balances on crisp, lightly fried water spinach and is topped with a foam of Høost cheese. This delicious serving is elevated to the heavenly by an exquisite burgundy, a 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet from Ramonet. The surprising star of the evening is Søllerød’s meat course, an interpretation of pigeon as a mosaic of perfectly roasted, petite morsels packed in crisp sweetbreads and served with mushroom-morel gelée and a whole stuffed morel. The pigeon has a fresh, light flavour, but is bursting with umami and acidic sweetness from a special “Russian” onion. The whole dish is bolstered by Diego Conterno’s Barolo Ginestra. The desserts at Søllerød Kro are not to be missed. The restaurant is renowned for its excellent pastry kitchen, and Hansen has an innovative style all his own. Symbols and shapes are at work here, so that by the end of the meal you find your senses elevated and attuned to the artistic culinary creations. We sample all five options: mango, yuzu and yoghurt as leaves on an exotic flower; monochrome parsnip in flakes with honey and chamomile; “The Snow Queen’s Tale” with coconut, passion fruit and vanilla; “Well-insulated Green Fantasy” with pistachio, thyme and hay milk; and the brown finale with chocolate, walnuts and arabica. The standout of the five is the pistachio dream, combining crunchy nuts with the creaminess of the biodynamic milk, whose sweetness is spiced up with thyme. The inventive desserts shine even brighter with the Beerenauslese Scheurebe in our glasses, and we conclude that Søllerød Kro offers one of Denmark’s premier dining experiences...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.