From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: The Standard, Havnegade 44, 1158 Copenhagen
- Phone: +45 72 14 88 08
- Web: thestandardcph.dk
- Seats: 40
- Opening Hours: Thu-Fri 12 noon-3 PM, Tue-Sat. 7 PM-12 midnight, Closed Sun-Mon
The art of creating a meal
At Studio, all the aesthetic and material parameters of a meal are attended to with unwavering mastery. Torsten Vildgaard and his incredibly competent staff serve some of the most innovative and delicious Nordic gastronomy in an extremely appealing way. Every time a dish is brought to the table, half of the kitchen staff joins in for the presentation – without ever causing you to feel disturbed or uncomfortable. Rather, it’s as if you are a dinner guest at Vildgaard’s own home. The tightly choreographed open kitchen is another innovative aspect, bolstered by the staff’s attentiveness and respect for guests and their fellow colleagues. With strong roots in Noma’s kitchen, Vildgaard long ago cemented his personal taste profile: bold umami in Nordic ingredients supported by salt and sweetness, nuanced with plenty of acidity, distinctive herbs and berries. Juniper berry seems to be Vidgaard’s signature spice. Pine, juniper berry and thyme form the spine the five rich snacks, including venison tartare with pine oil, herbs and crisp dark rye bread. A small fire of pine needles and juniper bush adds an enticing smell and makes the dish a unique sensory experience. The charcoal-roasted beetroot served with blackcurrants and pickled summer berries is characteristic of the kitchen’s boisterous flavours, elegantly elevated by a rosehip kombucha for those who choose the well-composed juice menu. One of the evening’s highlights in the seven-course menu (preceded by the five snacks and followed by two delightful petits fours) is the poached witch flounder, butchered into sections as if it were a lamb rack. Each little bone is finely cleaned and the fish is cooked with exacting precision, served with pickled onion skins, wild greens, the first ramson shoots of spring, last season’s pickled berries and a wonderful herby buerre blanc. The wine pairings complete the flavour profile, like when celeriac with fermented green strawberries and black truffle is served with a 2013 pinot noir from DuMOL in the Russian River Valley, providing perfect harmony between the acidity and notes of forest floor. A nostalgic, grandmotherly dish is also served, though in a more advanced version: hay-smoked beef cheek in a fatty jus with cabbage. Reflecting the kitchen’s respect for a meal’s composition, this main course is a true crescendo and turning point. The desserts also shine, particularly the final serving of plum compote, plum skin sorbet and plum pit foam, whose marzipan notes mesh perfectly with the creamy brown cheese reminiscent of of dulce de leche. Innovation and originality are united in the meal’s orchestration, making the experience of fine culinary arts at Studio nothing short of extraordinary...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.