From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Brunkebergstorg 4, 115 51 Stockholm
- Phone: +46 8 587 220 80
- Web: tak.se
- Seats: 160
Modern mix way up high
On Brunkeberg hill, Stockholm’s new entertainment district is emerging under the name Urban Escape. At the top of the building is Tak, one of the most talked about restaurant openings in recent years. Chef Frida Ronge’s (formerly of vRÅ in Gothenburg) Nordic Nippon kitchen now has a new home and the food is an appealing, clever mix of Swedish and Japanese ingredients, flavours and techniques. One example is the house “algae potatoes”, which are grown 25 meters from the sea, covered with algae, resulting in a firmer texture and more nutrients. They are served with Arenkha caviar (herring roe), sour cream and herring with a mild, smoky taste; unmistakably Swedish but with a Japanese sea note. Some things are finger-licking good, like the house donburi – a mixture of chicken, sweet and sour pickled rutabaga, rice, sweet caramelized onion and a perfectly baked egg whose flowing yellow yolk binds it all together in a delicious mix. Sure, the flavours get a bit messy, with all those potent ingredients in one deep, beautiful bowl. But it’s a sure-fire crowd-pleaser. Another perfection is the grilled redfish that flakes beautifully when it hits the fork joined by a complex “salad” of rice, almonds and iceberg lettuce, moistened with a mayo made from roasted garlic and chicken. All of this is topped with shredded dried pork. Oh yes, it’s seriously extravagant and dastardly good. On the concise list of sweets (there are only two) a tasty ice cream of roasted rice stands out. The restaurant is smart and modern, and the dining room designed by Wingårdh is very “now”. The open floor plan has stylish room dividers and in the background a large tattooed entourage in white coats prepare the food in the kitchen. It’s fun, playful and yet elegant with gold metal, wood, leather and concrete as base notes. The flow of light through the large windows is dazzling – as is the view, with large parts of the city at your feet. On the beverage side, sake plays prominently in different styles and temperaments. This is the place to get more closely acquainted with the complex world of rice wines. The large terrace outside is guaranteed to be this summer’s most coveted place in the sun...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.