From the White Guide Nordic 2018:

Tegelbacken

Very Fine Level 77
Food rating:31/40
BarChambre separéeWheelchair accessVegetarian dishesAmerican ExpressMedlem i Visita – Svensk Besöksnäring

Plush, pink and flavour-packed

In the midst of the minimalist era Markus Aujalay has invested deeply in its total opposite: fuchsia, turquoise, plush fabrics, cosiness, pillows, chandeliers and warm ambiance en masse. And actually, we note how our shoulders sink a few centimetres when, without resistance, we are embraced by the comfortable armchairs. The furnishings and soft jazz streaming from the speakers are an effective counterpoint to the extreme urban location in one of the city’s main traffic junctions. But can the food from this master chef judge withstand the same harsh scrutiny that he himself subjects to aspiring chefs on TV? Indeed it can. The simple little burrata serving manages to eclipse most interpretations in the genre: the creamy cheese is the perfect temperature and served with intense, cured tomatoes and powerful herbs. The halibut carpaccio, which is more like a love child between carpaccio and ceviche in style, is even better. Massive slices of supple halibut topped with well-dosed amounts of both lemon and piment d’Espelette. Among the heavier dishes we are impressed by a perfectly cooked piece of venison, paired with red wine and coffee sauce and an orange-braised, slightly bitter endive cleft. It’s an impressive balancing act where the bitterness of coffee and endive functions like clockwork with the wild game’s iron bloody sweetness and the fruitiness of the orange. The food is straightforward, tasty, and very well thought out. And the drinks? Yes, there is a bevy of fun cocktails, a well-curated wine list, and knowledgeable staff to help you along. Our wine selection is handled as carefully as the food, and the staff are just as wonderfully untrendy (aka., genuinely warm) as the pink, plush furniture. A new favourite restaurant is born...

To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.

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