From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Teknologgatan 3, 411 32 Gothenburg
- Phone: +46 31 16 20 66
- Web: thornstromskok.com
- Seats: 60
- Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 6 PM-11 PM, Sat 5 PM-11 PM. Closed Christmas, New Years, Juli and two first weeks of August
- Directions: See Google Map underneath
Heavy metal mixed with nostalgia
Nowadays they play popular Swedish rock at Thörnströms. And at relatively high volume, too. Thörnströms turns 20 years old this year and for 20 years has offered a predictable and traditional fine dining restaurant experience. The mature, loyal, affluent clientele who still sit for long dinners on the padded seats have now been joined by a younger crowd since Hakan Thörnström’s successful stint on television. And the staff! Last year the more serious, suited service staff started being replaced by young girls in black jeans with corkscrews in their back pockets. This year they own the floor fully; unpretentious, professional, charming and easy-going. The kitchen on the other hand has rarely produced so much heavy metal. An egg royale with cauliflower and drifts of truffles is like eating hangover food at first, due to its flavour-fueled, cheesy-creamy indulgence, but it’s fun in combination with a mature champagne. The amuse-bouches are multiple: a cheese-filled macaroon is a sweet intro and chips with horseradish cream are post-modernly stylish. Among the cold starters there’s a chilled rabbit ballotine encrusted in pistachios accompanied by a product of the year’s zero-waste craze: fried carrot tops (which, it should be said, also have zero taste). The main courses are protein-heavy calorie bombs. Six tender slices of venison flanked by a thumb-sized venison sausage and an herb-disguised stew. We look desperately for acid among the plate’s greenery, where a few thin apple slices fight valiantly among some twigs of rosemary. But then, oh! – a super-cute cookie jar appears with the coffee, packed with old-fashioned shortbread cookies like brysselkex, lingongrottor, kolasnittar, and schackrutor...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.