From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
Ti Trin Ned
- Address: Norgesgade 3, 7000 Fredericia
- Phone: +45 75 93 33 55
- Web: titrinned.dk
- Seats: 36
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 6 PM-12 midnight, Closed Sun-Mon
Ten steps down and a major leap towards the top
Since 2001, Ti Trin Ned (“Ten Steps Down”) has been a culinary oasis in Fredericia under the whitewashed vaulted ceilings of the former fermentation cellar of a distillery. White damask tablecloths, Wegner chairs and golden designer lamps create an unpretentious elegance, and the staff demonstrate a finely-tuned ability to maintain relaxed precision in their presentation. This isn’t the place to come for avant-garde provocation, but for classic craftsmanship and cuisine with roots in the local soil. We begin with snacks that come from the restaurant’s own farm outside of Fredericia: honey-glazed carrots sprinkled with fruity blackcurrant powder, Jerusalem artichoke skins filled with a luxurious cream of truffle oil and sunflower seeds, and delicate kohlrabi slices folded as dumplings around pungent sauerkraut. “Fish sticks” made of bakskuld (salted and smoked witch flounder) and cod are perfectly crisp and salty, while a meatball with malted barbeque sauce is umami heaven-on-a-stick. It’s an impressively promising start. We are paying our visit in the midst of darkest February, when kale is the first – and only – harbinger of spring. The kitchen bravely serves four variations – purée, powder, leaves and kale sausage crumble – with poached cod from nearby Skærbæk Bay. The seaweed-like intensity of the powder and a metallic tingle on the palate is counterbalanced by the acidity of a classic Danish “grandmother dressing” (traditionally made with heavy cream, lemon, sugar, salt and pepper). It’s a beautiful and honest interpretation of the season. The fine art of constructing a dish from many elements with a unified result is on display throughout the evening. Tartare of salt-baked beetroot is served with horseradish cream, sour gherkin gelée, shredded duck breast and ramson capers; it almost tastes like kimchi. It’s superbly composed and the cool fruit of a 2015 Planeta from Sicily’s Etna region is a competent pairing. The wine list sticks mainly to Europe, and the menu’s pairings are not from the hipster cellar, but sure-as-Sherlock prove masterful. Of particular note is Château de Montifaud’s Pineau des Charentes, where faint alcoholic strawberry notes are superb with the butter ice cream, parsnip purée and sour plum. But prior to that comes the main course: fillet of beef with bordelaise; a classic dish from a classic cut of beef. The sauce is silky-smooth and beefed-up with bone marrow, while the meat from Grambogård finds fresh contrasts in the crisp garlic and pickled celeriac. The dish is like a decadent reward for our Protestant journey through the empire of cabbage. Ti Trin Ned excels at both classic craftsmanship and seasonal vegetable-based cuisine. Sometimes we find ourselves wishing that the kitchen would aim more for ultra simple but daring dishes, such as the sublime sorbet served as our pre-dessert, made with birch sap from the restaurant’s own farm, but no one can dispute what the couple behind this establishment has achieved: 16 years with international honours, the affinity of the local community and a kitchen deserving of its prominent standing in the world of Danish gastronomy...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.