From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Munkebjergvej 125, 7100 Vejle
- Phone: +45 76 42 85 00
- Web: tree-top.dk
- Seats: 35
- Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 6 PM-9.30 PM
Frolicking fusion in the clouds
With wide balconies stretching up the multi-storey facade, Vejle’s Hotel Munkebjerg most of all resembles an Austrian guesthouse where you could expect watered-down bier vom fass and Wiener Schnitzel the size of manhole covers, but make no mistake: the hotel’s ambitious Tree Top restaurant is headed by Columbian-born Bryan Francisco – crowned by White Guide as the 2016-17 Rising Star – with his acclaimed fusion cuisine, where distinct Asian flavours and techniques meet European classics. A well-established tradition at Tree Top is washing down the first wave of snacks under the vaulted ceilings of the wine cellar with Munkebjerg’s house champagne from Charles Gardet. The highlight of this opening heat is the puffed rice crisps with saffron dust, served on a bonsai tree and accompanied by bakskuld mayo – a serving whose eclectic components and fine balance of richness, fish, smoke, crunch and saffron aroma exemplify Francisco’s crossover philosophy. Upon arrival at the restaurant’s dining room, we are delighted by the freshness of the air and the peaceful, almost recording-studio-like calm that only occasionally is interrupted by a couple of crackling chirps from the flames of the open fireplace in the corner. We are served throughout the evening by a team of five waiters who take turns presenting the drinks and food in an informative and welcoming, but predominantly formal tone. The strongest dishes of the evening are the maritime and innovative servings rooted in fusion cuisine. A slider on a corn flour bun filled with succulent pulled duck and kimchi is a superb manifestation of respect for ingredients where less is more. The mini-burger is accompanied by a young, dry Mosel riesling from Weingut Schmitges; the pairing is a delicate reminder that riesling and fermented foods dance in unison like Fred and Ginger. The fusion spectacle continues with raw tuna, marinated in various citrus juices, with yuzu, sesame and freshly picked coriander: a transparent ceviche-inspired dish where each element comes through clearly on its own, yet accentuates and supports each other. We make a brief descent to Earth with a cut of beef tenderloin wrapped in various beetroot textures, accompanied by a glass of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with a little age. It is an intensely violet-coloured dish, and although the earthy tone of the beetroot variations mesh nicely with the wine’s oaked notes and the crisp Maillard symphony of the beef, the innovation altimeter falls to more ordinary heights here. But, overall, Tree Top impresses...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.