From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Dronning Eufemias gate 8, 0190 Oslo
- Phone: +47 92 07 09 99
- Web: vaaghals.com
- Seats: 150
- Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 11 AM-10 PM, Sat 5-10 PM. Closed for Christmas and Easter and 3 weeks in July
A short walk from Oslo’s central station you’ll find Vaaghals, a restaurant with rural Norway’s culinary poster boy Arne Brimi as one of its owners. It’s no surprise, then, that there’s a solid emphasis on Norwegian cooking and preservation techniques at the core of this tastefully decorated restaurant. With the open kitchen as the main feature of its decor, an evening spent here has an obvious transparency to it. Seeing as Norwegian cuisine is normally regarded as salty, tame and umami-free, there are few places right now that do a better job than Vaaghals at glamorizing and transforming this cold country’s stiff heritage into something that feels wholly new, thoughtful and edgy. Staple ingredients find new friends, like in a dish where ramsons meet hollandaise and smoked roe as a base for a crisp Jerusalem artichoke – or when sour cream made from goat’s milk finds itself in a dessert with cheesecake and strawberries for a sweet, sour, tangy and crisp finish. Meals are made to share, and you should. Indulge in a lovely confited spring chicken thigh with variations on leek and cauliflower. Or order a handful of slices of melt-in-your-mouth ham with a strong, vinegary mustard dipping sauce. There’s a communal feeling to the whole Vaaghals experience, where you feel like you’re on the same team as the staff and cooks, and where we all can find joy and lucullian pleasure on the urban outskirts of rural Scandinavian ideas and flavours...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.